rocks, sand and stars

FOREWORD
What you must understand about Southern California is that, basically, it's a city. The entire region is an unending sea of buildings, commercial and residential neighborhoods which themselves compose independent towns. Some of them are packed so closely together that it's impossible to tell where one ends and the other begins. (It IS possible to tell where Redlands ends and Hemet begins, for reasons which Karl Marx could rattle off half-drunk; but that's beside the point.)

It's a macrocosm, really. SoCal is put together much like a town in itself. Each city is a different neighborhood, each neighborhood with its own—ahem—unique character. Over on the east side you've got the low-rent district, full of hicks and wife-beaters and layabouts and canned-beer drinkers, living in vans and campers down by the river; the west side is the plush, breezy, hoidy-toidy coastal resort with miles of beaches, bungalows, and palm trees; the south side is the middle-class, (relatively) peaceful and (somewhat) clean area where the parents and grandparents live; the north side's hilly and scrubby and jam-packed with administrative buildings and the cookie-cutter houses, whence the morning commuters come; and in the smoggy, filthy, eccentric center of town reside the sin and vice and glam and sophistry and commercialism of California's recycled-paper heart.

I live on the east side, which is composed mostly of the Mojave and Colorado Deserts, the Colorado River, the San Andreas Fault, a few dozen small- to medium-size cities and hundreds of dead-end, ramshackle towns: 29 Palms, Barstow, Hinkley, Boron, Amboy, and Needles. Some of those cities are nice places with green golf courses and big stucco mansions and expensive restaurants, like Palm Springs. But for the most part the Mojave is Podunk, devoid of moisture. There's a few national parks, some military bases, a couple of mountain ranges and a big salty lake thrown in for good measure.

Just west-southwest of this desert is the Los Angeles Basin, which is composed mostly of Los Angeles (blargh) and all of its innumerable suburbs and outlying districts. That literally IS one big city. You can walk from Burbank to Irvine to Fontana to Long Beach without touching the ground. Just hop from rooftop to rooftop. You may need a vaulting pole to cross the interstate highways; you may need a ladder to get over the skyscrapers; the palm trees would be handy for moving from one Malibu estate to the next; and Mount Lee might require an extra-large jump (what with those big white letters and all). But you get the picture.

Southern California is a massive metropolis, a single titanic municipal entity, possessing a great many postal codes, enough freaky religions to put Jim Jones off his Kool-Aid, more palm trees than ought to be countenanced by a sane god, and about 20 million people—most of whom spend their time either sitting in traffic or being crabby. Or both.

For someone who hates cities (like me), it's a deplorable situation.

Subjectivity aside, there are a LOT of buildings down here.

AND a lot of lights.

That makes it kind of tough to stargaze.

You can stand anywhere in Southern California at night and it's guaranteed you'll have to deal with some kind of light pollution: either from the beehive of Los Angeles to the southwest, or Laughlin and Las Vegas to the northwest.

Nonetheless, Miss H and I saw a hellacious load of stars on the night of October 11. We were in Joshua Tree National Park, which explains why.

CHAPTER ONE - JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK
Not too many people know about this hidden gem of the desert. Not even the people who live here. It's not like it's some big secret. Joshua Tree lies just south of the small town of the same name (itself east of Yucca Valley and west of 29 Palms) and north of Indio and Palm Springs. It covers over 1,200 square miles (nearly 790,000 acres, or 320,000 hectares, if you prefer that sort of measurement). Contained within that expanse is some of the prettiest desert country you could ever hope to find in Southern California. As-yet unsettled by fat, beer-soaked hicks and their rusty cars, that is. It's got some epic scenery, too. The park is coated with massive piles of Cretaceous granite (quartz monzonite to be exact, rough stuff), eroded into oblong boulders and jumbled in the most wanton manner imaginable. Most of these piles are so unique in appearance and so gigantic in stature that they've garnered themselves unique nicknames, like the Hall of Horrors and the Giant's Marbles.

A female friend of mine once referred to these piles as "God's Legos," which just about says it all, I reckon.

We'd been meaning to take a camping trip for a while, Miss H and I. Then, one week, I unexpectedly wound up with two days off in a row. So naturally I seized the carp and arranged things with my lady forthwith.

My father, fortuitously, is an avid outdoorsman. We have enough camping supplies in our garage to put an Arab caravan out of business: tents, folding chairs, tarps, pots, pans, cups, tin plates, lanterns, matches, lighters, med-kits, water bottles, ropes, stakes, poles, walking sticks, knives, hatches, multitools, candles, sleeping bags, air mattresses, camp pillows, cots, cooking stoves, gas canisters, the works. Each component would drive a psychometrist out of his mind. There's so much pain, exhaustion, exhilaration, sweat, torture, exertion and triumph wrapped up in these inanimate bits of equipment. Each has a story to tell. A mountain climbed, a rocky trail conquered, a valley explored, a tent pitched in a hidden glen, a hot meal cooked and devoured lustily. Aching calves. Bursting lungs. Throbbing hearts. Backs soaked in brine. A cool breeze welcomed with religious fervor. Sunlight on the leaves. Blinding snow. Birdsong in the distance. A half-glimpse of some forest creature. The chuckling of a stream. The savory chill of mud and water on red-hot feet. Compass needles and maps. Trails and trees. Rocks and roots. Sun and stars. Earth and sky and everything in between.

From this trove (and its memories) I selected the gear I figured we'd need for two people and one night in the Mojave Desert in autumn. We had a tent, a couple chairs, some sleeping bags, an air mattress, a battery-powered lantern, the camp stove, some silverware and dishes and cups, a tarp for a ground-cloth, and a medical kit. I loaded my travel vest with whatever else might come in handy: my Bowie knife, my survival card (more about that later), my three-in-one sporknife (exactly what it sounds like), a deck of cards, a flask of brandy, a good novel, and various other accoutrements. And by "accoutrements," you know I'm talking about more booze. I packed my traveling cocktail set with 500 milliliters of vodka and a similar amount of sweet 'n' sour, just in case we felt the need for some libations in the evening.

We loaded all this into my faithful Jeep on the morning of the eleventh, picked up some grocery items in Lucerne Valley, and headed for Joshua Tree.

CHAPTER TWO - INTO THE DESERT
The hour-long drive was just as scenic as I remember. Once you crest the hill just east of Yucca Valley and begin the quick descent down the torturous 247, and the town opens up beneath you, rock piles and cactus spines and red tile roofs, with the stark and blasphemous granite mountains rising up behind...

A quick left on the 62 and a right on Park Drive had us at the gates of Joshua Tree inside 20 minutes. All civilization faded away, except for the two-lane blacktop we drove on. All had suddenly changed to desert at its most elemental: sand, rocks, mountains, and the titular Joshua trees, arms clutching at the empty sky like an agonal prophet.

The immaculate clarity of the place dazzles the eye and the imagination: all is reduced to lines and colors, the green spikes of the Joshua and the agave standing out against the beige-brown of the sand and shrubs and the blue-hot ocean of sky overhead. Heat waves trick the eye, mirages dance on open ground, and the merciless sun limns all with a harsh white glare. It's been said before by better men, but one can truly believe, standing in the midst of this unyielding and eldritch environment, that one is standing on the untamed surface of an alien planet.

...which does not and should not detract from the charm of the place. Not one little bit. Joshua Tree is beautiful. The park is a feast for the eyes, far more enchanting than many bits of more extreme deserts like the Kalahari or the Gobi. There's more in it, for one thing. The Mojave and Colorado Deserts boast a more rich and diverse biosphere than many wetter ecosystems. On any given day you can see coyotes, roadrunners, rattlesnakes, scorpions...and that doesn't even compare to what comes out at night.

We spent a happy afternoon touring the park. Up to Keys View, to look down upon the Coachella Valley from 5,000 feet up; Indio, Palm Springs, and a myriad-phalanx of date palm farms laid out beneath us. To the west was Mount San Jacinto, the loftiest of the Three Saints, a massive blue-green beast of a landform, stretching to 8,319 feet. At its feet, winding away toward L.A., lay the deceptive San Andreas Fault, ready to blow any second. To the southwest, the grayish-blue void of the Salton Sea was clearly visible; and beyond that, just at the edge of perception, sat Signal Mountain on the Mexican border, ninety-three miles away. Even Coachella's ever-present smog (and that of Los Angeles, drifting in from the west) couldn't prevent us from seeing these miracles.

Good thing I brought my binoculars, though.

We got some unusually clear pictures up there. There was some kid in a white shirt and a baseball cap with a $3,000 camera hanging around his neck, sitting on the stone partition and looking bored out of his mind. I walked toward him to ask him to take our picture. Before I'd even opened my mouth, he was standing up and reaching out his hand for my trusty red Canon.

He took good pictures.

It was a bit warm to hike to Barker Dam, but we settled for strolling through the Wonderland of Rocks.

We got to the campground at about 4 o'clock and pitched camp.

CHAPTER THREE - HOW TO OPERATE A CAN OPENER
I had picked Jumbo Rocks for a campsite because I was vaguely familiar with it. I'd picnicked there before. I seemed to recall that it was a locale straight from Tolkien or Verne, an epic sort of place with titanic boulders sprawled everywhere, bushes and trees and stretches of sand elbowing in where they could.

My recollection was right on target.

Miss H and I snatched a registration form from the box and drove around looking for the most photogenic campsite (farthest from anyone else). Fortunately, even on Columbus Day weekend, the park was deserted. Miss H and I found our site with relative ease. We filled out the form, raced back to the entrance to get registered, and then came back and set up camp.

Now this, ladies and gentlemen, is what a functioning campsite looks like.

Night fell swiftly. Miss H and I climbed up on the rock to view the sunset. Then we broke out the camp stove and the chili and began to cook dinner.

Now, let me first explain something to you about can openers. They come in three main varieties. The first is the electric can opener. Craven, rump-fed poltroons employ these in their Malibu condominiums to obtain the Fancy Feast necessary to prevent their fat-bastard Persians from pissing on the carpet.

The second type is the rotary or hand-actuated can opener, in which the operator "clips" the blade and its rotating gear to the can, holds the apparatus steady with one hand and turns a knob with the other. The blade proceeds around the edge of the can's lid, neatly severing it from the can proper.

The third type is the manual or hand-operated can opener, which is basically a metal flange with a wicked hook carved into the bottom edge.

There's a trick to operating this latter type.

You have to go around the edge of the can with the blade instead of going straight for the middle.

Guess which stratagem I attempted first?

One mutilated can-lid later, Miss H hit upon the brilliant idea of going around.

Things worked much better after that, and we were soon spooning hot chili into our gullets by the white light of a battery-powered lantern.

After that it was time for some s'mores. I, in my infinite wisdom, had remembered every single solitary piece of camping equipment that we'd need, but had neglected to (a) buy bread to go with the lunch-meat we'd purchased, and (b) had overlooked what method we'd use to toast our s'mores. Propane flames don't really impart a desirable flavor to the marshmallows, you see. Natural flames are preferable. If a little bit of the smoke gets into the graham crackers, well, so much the better.

We didn't have natural flames (we'd brought a camp stove instead of firewood, for the sake of portability).

So we settled for eating 'em cold.

Yeah, okay, I know. We're blasphemers. Apostates. Communists. But hey, a cold s'more is still a s'more, same as cold pizza is still pizza and a bad cigar is still a cigar.

CHAPTER FOUR - ON THE DOORSTEP OF THE STARS
And then came the night's grand finale: we made ourselves comfortable at the cement picnic table, turned off all the lights, craned our heads back, and looked at the stars.

And looked and looked and looked and looked.

There were millions of 'em.

The night-black sky was speckled with tiny flecks of brilliant diamond-white, like granules of sugar scattered in a coal scuttle, spotlights streaming through bullet holes in a black wall.

It was the most beautiful sight we'd seen in an eternity. We were far removed from the lights of any town (even Los Angeles was a mere greenish line to the southwest). Constellations which had previously been muted and tired and old now lit up the heavens with renewed energy. The Big Dipper lay suspended in the northwest, glittering as I'd never seen it before, like a rock star playing in his hometown. Hundreds upon hundreds of tiny new stars, too dim to be seen from my backyard, were glowing and gleaming out of the firmament. It was an immensely cheering sight. It did my heart good to think that there were still places in the continental U.S. where you could see starry skies like this (in Kansas, apparently, you can see nebulae...nebulae, for Pete's sake!). It was like the star-spangled opening sequence of Star Wars: a sky literally swimming in stars, every single square inch taken up with twinkling lights.

We gazed for as long as we could. There was far too much to take it all in at once. Plus our necks were getting sore. So we turned in about ten-ish and hit the sack.

I can remember getting up once in the middle of the night for a bathroom break. I was debating whether or not to take the flashlight. I did wind up taking it, just to avoid tripping on (or bumping into) any of the massive boulders that composed our campsite. But I turned it off when I got to my (ahem) lavatory. I looked up at the sky and breathed a deep sigh of contentment.

Then I looked around and realized that I could see by starlight. I had never been able to do that before, not in all the places I'd been or lived. I'd read about people doing it in books (books written in the nineteenth century or early twentieth), but had hardly been able to credit it. Now I could see that it was possible. There was no moon. Nothing but the endless blue-black vault above me, spangled with celestial bodies, the largest and best planetarium in the universe. Everything was dim about me, but I could see. See in the dark. How long had it been since a human being, raised in civilization, had stood in the dark of the world and tried to see his way without a contrivance like flashlight or fire?

We woke the next day about 8:00 a.m., when it was already getting too hot to sleep. We packed up, did one last check around to make sure we'd left nothing behind, paid our camping fee, and left the park by the scenic route. We had breakfast at Denny's in 29 Palms, had a leisurely drive home, and spent the rest of the day vegetating. Not much was said. We were still remembering the stars.

happiness

It took me a moment after I woke up to remember that there was a guest under my roof. Even though I was lying on a tightly strung cot in the front room of our house, inches from the Christmas tree, I still didn't recall the matter right away. When I did, oh boy, I couldn't get up and get ready fast enough. I sprang up, put on the clothes I'd set out earlier, threw my pillow aside, rolled up my sleeping bag, folded up the cot...and then wandered into the kitchen and just sort of milled around, waiting for Allison to awake. I wanted to be ready to make her whatever she wanted the moment she asked for it. I pride myself on being a good host, y'know. Honest, that's all it was. Yep. Allison obviously prides herself on being a good guest, because she didn't keep me waiting long. She came into the kitchen, fully dressed, refreshed and looking like a million bucks. (How do girls DO that???) After I'd run through the menu, she requested toasted bagels with cream cheese and strawberry jam. So I whipped us up a batch. I'd never tried strawberry jam and cream cheese on a bagel simultaneously. Wow, that was a learning experience. It was far from unpleasant—I found the combination intriguing, in fact—but nonetheless indescribably weird. Normally I'm all for maximizing one's pleasure. Cream cheese stands well enough on its own, and so does strawberry jam. It seems only natural to mix the two in order to make a bagel taste twice as good. But it had never occurred to me that way before. It almost seemed like a little too much of a good thing, like strapping a shotgun onto an M-16, or getting a complimentary swimsuit model with every Lamborghini you buy. It's almost too much. Seems as though you would want to focus on one or the other. I never thought jam and cream cheese would mix so harmoniously. We tarried only long enough to pack a picnic lunch (Allison helped me make some PBJs) and pack up the car before we headed off into the bright, cool morning for Joshua Tree National Park. What is Joshua Tree National Park, you ask? This: Beautiful, ain't it? All the more beautiful in the cool of desert winter. It's just as beautiful in triple-digit heat, but not as fun to go see, if you know what I mean. So, after an hour and a half's drive through the scenic Mojave Desert, past Lucerne Valley, Yucca Valley, and into Joshua Tree (almost to 29 Palms), we entered the park. Allison stumped up for the $15 entrance fee, bless her heart. We spent a delightful morning just touring the place. Under the slantwise glow of the winter sun, in the near-chill of the Southern California winter air, it was a sublime sight. We drove to Keys Vista and took a good look out over the Coachella Valley, Palm Springs, Mount San Jacinto, and the Salton Sea. 'Fraid I don't have any images of that epic vista to share with you, though. Allison got better photos than I did. Her Kodak is actually set up to take panoramic pictures, which came out wickedly, awesomely, monstrously cool and downright breathtaking. (Besides, if I put a picture of the view up here on Blogger, you wouldn't have to go and see actually visit the park and see it for yourselves, now would you?) Then we began a slow dogleg back through the park to find somewhere to have lunch. We passed by Saddle Rock... ...and the Hall of Horrors, which was so distinctly named that I couldn't resist having a look-see. The look-see inevitably turned into a look-climb. I'm particularly glad Allison took that last photograph. I look just like Indiana Jones, don't I? I strained my left gluteus maximus rather badly climbing down, but apart from that, there were no mishaps. We elected to stop by the Jumbo Rocks for lunch on our way out of the park. Both of us noticed that our time together was rapidly developing a theme: "big." On the way home from Vegas, we'd stopped by Whiskey Pete's Resort & Casino in Primm, Nevada. The only eatery that had been open was the Mega Café. Now we would be eating at the Jumbo Rocks. Two big things in as many days. So we both agreed to try and keep the big theme going if we had a chance. We found a nice spot amid the rocks, out of the wind, and relatively free of dive-bombing crows, and ate our sandwiches, talking of this and that. Things couldn't have been going better, in my opinion. The weather was beautiful, I hadn't committed any massive mistakes (navigation-related or otherwise), and I had a lovely woman and an old friend sitting next to me, in the midst of one of the most gorgeous bits of Mother Earth to be found. Life was pure-D wonderful. And so we finished lunch, got back inside Roger, and headed out. Oh yes, Roger! How could I forget? Allison helped me name my Jeep. Now, normally I don't name cars. Most guys don't. Statistically speaking, women are more likely to name cars than men. Just another notch in my metrosexual belt, I guess. I don't mind. My '96 Ford Taurus was named "Chester" and I never saw any reason to change that. Now that I had acquired a '95 Jeep Cherokee, my naming skills had vanished in a puff of exhaust. Not that I was consciously trying to name the Jeep, mind you. But whenever the idea of naming it popped into my head, my subconscious couldn't help but start simmering away, mulling over possible monikers. I was stuck in that respect. All of the names that had popped into my head were nouns. Moreover, they were the names of other SUVs, already taken: Ranger, Rover, Explorer, and so on. That simply wouldn't do. So, imagine my surprise when, lo and behold, Allison turns to me moments after we pull onto the I-15 going away from Las Vegas and says: "So, have you thought up a name for your car yet?" I allowed I hadn't. She said, "That's okay. Leave it to me. I'm pretty good at naming things." She wasn't kidding, either. Her previous car was named "Sophie." So, as we pulled away from the Jumbo Rocks that bright fall morning in Joshua Tree, and the Jeep was grumbling and growling up a hill, it seemed as though a word of encouragement was in order. But I couldn't just say, "Come on, Jeep!" I needed a name. So I turned to Allison and said, "Any luck coming up with a name for this thing?" "Oh yeah!" she cried, remembering. "Hmmm..." She thought for just a second or two. "Roger," she pronounced. I liked it. Never met a Roger I hadn't liked. "Jolly Roger" was the collective name bloodthirsty pirates once bestowed on their sinister black flags. "Gold Roger" was the name of an infamous buccaneer in my favorite Japanese comic book, One Piece. "Roger" is the name of Pongo's owner in Disney's 101 Dalmatians. I also mistakenly believed that Roger was the first name (?) of John C. Frémont, the famed U.S. explorer and politician. Circumstances seemed to favor that name. So I said heck yes, and the rest came easily. "Come on, Roger!" I encouraged. Roger grumbled and growled a little more, then hoisted us to the top of the hill. Christen accomplished. We drove down, down, down, and came out through the northeast park exit, in 29 Palms. We drove back through Joshua Tree on the CA-62, got back on the 247 and headed home. The original plan had been to go out on the town with the family that night. But Allison and I were both so tired from getting up early and driving all day that we just decided to stay in. Once again, Alli proved what a good guest and honorable friend she was. She offered to cook dinner, and suggested I invite some of my friends over for her to meet. So I called up John and Chris. Mom and Dad excused themselves for the evening, heading down to Las Brisas (a groovy Mexican restaurant on the outskirts of town). Harlan, Chris, John, Alli and I had a pretty darn good dinner party. Alli made enchilasagna, enchiladas made lasagna-style (without rolling the tortillas). It was A-B-S-O-L-U-T-E-L-Y G-O-R-G-E-O-U-S. With a capital "A" and "G." And a capital "B," "S," "O," "L"...well, you get the picture. Man, Alli's a good cook. The enchilasagna was a layer cake of flour tortillas, ground beef, onions, four different kinds of cheese, and both green AND red sauce. It was so delicious that it disappeared. Between the five of us, we killed it. Couldn't resist. Everybody had thirds. We were hooked on the stuff. There followed about an hour's worth of some of the raunchiest conversation I have ever been involved in, courtesy of John and Chris. Both of 'em are dirty-minded enough on their own, but when they get together, oh mother do they get blue. They'd have made Tiger Woods's porn star mistress blush, I reckon. (Even so, not even the two of them together could equal Wade, the head teacher at my bartender's school in Riverside...funny how we always start out talking about alcoholic beverages and wind up talking about perverted homosexual practices.) Alli was a champ. Despite being a good Lutheran girl from straight-laced North Dakota, she never once got offended. On the contrary, she was laughing and giggling and giving it back. I was impressed. Not that I expected any less of her, but damn, that girl just keeps impressing me right and left. She sure is something. Finally the party broke up. John and Chris went home, I cleaned up the kitchen, and then Harlan and Alli and I had a few rousing games of Bananagrams. For those unlucky people in the audience who don't know what this game is, boy have you been missing out. Imagine a crossword puzzle without the board. You get a bunch of lettered tiles, like you would in Scrabble, only you have to race to put together words with them (without having any left over) before your opponents do. You have a big pile in the middle and as soon as you get finished making all of your words, you yell "PEEL" and everybody has to take another tile and then keep making words. It's a challenge, but a zealously fun challenge for would-be wordsmiths like yours truly. We played for a good long while, and then went to bed: Alli in her room and I on my cot. My head whirred with what I'd seen and done that day. And I knew it was just going to get better. For tomorrow, we would brave smog and crowds and highways and danger in our determined quest for... ...UNIVERSAL STUDIOS, HOLLYWOOD! Stay tuned.

Day Four: Jeju

I was entirely unsure of what to do with myself today. But, as usual for me, once I got outside in the morning air and started walking around, a plan materialized. I know, I thought. I'll go see Oedolgae and the other rocks, and then snag all the stuff I missed yesterday in Northeastern Jeju! Or something like that. So I trudged off down the street, snagging a few images of Seogwipo on the way. ...like this... ...and this. This is the central square-intersection thingy of Old Seogwipo, incidentally where my hostel, the Jeju Hiking Inn, was located. (It's the semi-tall building to the left of the side street.) The harubang were everywhere. The walk was extremely pleasant, especially past the slightly swankier hotel/restaurant district. ...not to mention the luscious foliage. After a lovely stroll through downtown Seogwipo and down some jungle-clad trails, I arrived at Oedolgae, or the Lonely Rock. Just a kilometer or so from my corner of Seogwipo was this tall pillar of rock sticking straight up out of the ocean, just off the coast. The sucker must be 50 or 60 feet tall. It was an impressive sight, to be honest, worth the blasphemous heat and humidity of the day for a walk under the cool shade trees... ...to the overlook point where I viewed it. I must admit, though, it got even better when I went back to the parking lot and bought a coconut with a straw in it for ₩4,000 (about three-fifty in U.S. dollars). Mmmm, nothing like fresh, ice-cold coconut milk after a long hot walk and staring at a rock. I even cracked it open when I was done and sampled the meat, but it was quite tough. So I donated it to the forest gods. (Don't worry, I made sure to dispose of the plastic straw in the proper receptacle.) I caught a cab next for Jusangjeolli, the basaltic tower formations about ten kilometers farther down the road, toward New Seogwipo. That was a mistake. I mean the cab was a mistake, not going to Jusangjeolli. It was 11,000 won. I should've waited for the bus, but I was in a hurry. After forking over the ₩2,500 admission fee to see the rocks, I gave them a thorough viewing. I walked into the delightful little park they'd built on the top of the cliffs first. (I accidentally went in through the out door, as far as wooden promenades are concerned.) It was a peaceful sight, these monolithic basalt steps and pillars, formed by the uneven cooling of lava thousands of years ago, being slowly weathered away by the actions of relentless water. The energetic waves swooshed and roared around their bases, throwing up majestic splashes (and all that jazz). I took a few perfunctory photos, put the camera away, then just leaned on the balustrade and relaxed for a bit. ...and then walked back out a different way than I came in, through the park they'd set up. That was pretty enough, with yucca plants and ocotillo and some strange pillars... ...and even a few more harubang... ...but lo and behold! Guess where I popped out! It was the ICC, the International Convention Center, Jeju. I hadn't planned on going here (even though it was on my map) because, well, I've got no interest in conventions. But it turned out to be an interesting stroll regardless. They had a duty-free shop (disappointingly filled with nothing but notions, handbags and perfumes, just as in Seoul), some restaurants, and some impressive architecture, not to mention a bucketload of foreigners draining slowly out of the aforementioned restaurants. I hate to state the obvious, but there must've been an international convention going on. There were hundreds of them, mostly middle-aged and elderly, none of them speaking any language I recognized. I meandered out of the building amid this throng. They headed toward their tour buses and I headed up the street to get another cab. After viewing the Jusangjeolli Rocks I'd realized there was something else down here in Seogwipo I had to see before I did anything else: Yeomiji Botanical Garden. Thence I boldly went next, and what a banquet for the eyes it was (even despite the fact that there were hardly any English labels; just Korean and Latin). For a slightly hefty ₩7,000 I was deluged with more of the world's flora than I could possibly absorb in one go. First, there was a grand sort of greenhouse, which resembled a smaller version of St. Paul's Cathedral in London (made of glass). This grand greenhouse proved, on the inside, to be a grand atrium, arching over my head in a most titanic fashion... ...and resplendent with flowers and plants and growths of all sorts. Through the central column you could take a glass elevator up a few levels and then climb some narrow staircases to the very top of the tower. From there, I had views of the principalities of New Seogwipo and Jungmun... ... the bridge over the chasm where lay Cheonjeyeon Waterfall... ...the distant South Sea, the hazy Convention Center a ways off, and the rest of Yeomiji itself. It was quite something, and it only improved from there. Radiating outward from the central gallery were numerous smaller greenhouses (each still the size of a good gymnasium). These were themed, and housed numerous examples of a particular kind of plant life. There were fruit tree gardens and jungle gardens... ...water gardens and cactus gardens... It was amazing. The place had been really well set up. Wandering into these rooms immersed you in another world; dark trunks surrounded me and spreading foliage flowed all around, thrusting itself from every aperture on the ground and even in the air, cambering over my head like the bower of a forest goddess. Shade hung heavy upon the ground, and a sacred quiet prevailed, unsullied by the eclectic mix of insipid music they had playing on the stereo system. The cactus garden held specimens whose existence I'd never even suspected before (and my father collects cacti). The flower garden was kind of a letdown (not very much variety) but peaceful and tranquil. The jungle was impressive, a huge tangle of India rubber trees and hair palms and ferns, with ponds and swamps and statues of dinosaurs scattered among it. Outside, the ocular smorgasbord continued: the Japanese garden was filled with hungry koi... ...the Korean garden was small, and impressive with its stone wall and stately pagoda... ...the stroll through the area decorated with native Jeju vegetation was nothing short of scenic... ...the Italian garden was nothing short of epic, with a massive fountain... ...the French garden was elegant and immacuately trimmed, quite serene... ...and the sunken garden was small but nonetheless unique. I strode briskly but not hurriedly through this botanical Mecca, surprised and pleased by its extent and scope. I went at the wrong time of year, of course; late June and early July. If I'd been on Jeju earlier in May, the entire island would've been bursting at the seams with flowers. Purple azaleas bloom on the summit of Hallasan; I'm sure Yeomiji has its fair share of florid eye candy at that time as well. I highly recommend the trip. The price was steep; the soul massage was irreplacable. Don't take my word for it. Following Yeomiji, I detoured outside and took a quick right into a little park that was just off the main road, right next to botanical gardens. It housed an impressive temple... ...a five-headed fountain that granted wishes... ...and some stunning views of Cheonjeyeon Waterfall. NOTE: Don't confuse Cheonjeyeon Waterfall with the one I went to the first day I got here, right by my hotel in Old Seogwipo, Cheonjiyeon Waterfall. After wandering about the park and its various lookout points (including the massive bridge that spans the chasm and a monument to the seven nymphs who in ancient times were said to slide down moonbeams to bathe at the pool at the bottom of the falls), I exited the complex. Since I was so close, I figured I might as well go have a look at Jungmun Beach, even if I wasn't going to swim there (yet). It was an impressive sight: a huge, velvety expanse of fine-sand beach, backed by towering jungle-clad cliffs and girded by impressive piles of ebony rock, with plenty of surf and not too many people. The seafood restaurants were doing a bustling trade, there were swimsuits for rent and snacks for sale, and it was just a fun, sociable scene. For the umpteenth time this trip I regretted that I was here by myself, but determined to make the best of it, I doffed my shoes and splodged for a short while in the surf. The water was nice and cool, but no longer bone-chilling. Then I sat down (while my feet dried), ordered up a nice tall bottle of ice-cold water, and sipped it as I people-watched. The young-and-hot crowd was out in force today, I'll just say that, but there were a few families mixed in, and a thankfully small number of weirdos (the only one I noticed was an elderly, portly fellow in a red-and-black Hawaiian shirt and a coachman's cap with a fuzzy beard, gazing very intently at the fish for sale). After my feet dried I went a few yards back up the lane away from the beach, sat down at a fish restaurant, and ordered up some meonggae (raw sea squirt) and a beer. I snacked on this while the sun got lower. It was interesting eating. The meonggae was neither spongy, rubbery nor slimy, and tasted vaguely of abalone, but there was some undercurrent of flavor in there that had an almost bitter, vegetable-like quality. That makes sense, considering. I gulped it down quickly (I was hungry, and it was tasty, and there was only 500 grams of it, all for 10,000 won), then sat and leisurely finished my can of Cass. I had knotted my bandanna around my head in deference to the sweat; I must've looked like an off-duty pirate. I finally got up, walked a kilometer or so back to the Convention Center (and the airport limousine bus stop), and caught the next bus for the Sunbeach Hotel, Seogwipo. And here I am writing to you about it. Still no word from Patrick. I assume he must've made it to this town just peachy; now it's just a matter of contacting him. In the meantime, I'll think I'll take it easy this evening. It's already far too late (six o'clock) to even think about trying for any of the other stuff I wanted to see in North Jeju, like the lava tubes or the village. I think I'll have to push that back to Sunday. Tomorrow is Hallasan and Jeju City (for the bars on Friday night) and the next day is Jungmun Beach and who knows what-all. Until next time...