Showing posts with label booze. Show all posts
Showing posts with label booze. Show all posts

Saturday, January 24, 2015

cocktail review no. 78 - Aberfoyle

One of the things I picked up from my parents' house before I came down to Vegas was my old box of booze. During the first six months of 2008, when I lived in my folks' basement in Wyoming after graduating college and fruitlessly scoured cyberspace for journalism work, I took an interest in cocktails. My folks were wont to have a martini every night before dinner. Their liquor selection consisted solely of a fifth of Bombay Sapphire and some Martini & Rossi. After thumbing through The Bartender's Bible by Gary Regan (which to this day is my go-to guide on mixology), I found my parents' stocks to be inadequate. So over the course of six months I laded their liquor cabinet with rum (light and dark), tequila, vodka, bourbon, Scotch, rye, and every liqueur or cordial you could name. My folks, having no use for this stuff after I moved out, boxed it all up. I retrieved it from their new house in Sacramento last week and drove it, rattling and clinking, down Highway 95 to Las Vegas. The gin, tequila, and whiskies were long gone; only two bottles of hard liquor remain to my name, some Ugly Dog Vodka and Ugly Dog Rum. (My parents acquired it thanks to my grandparents, who had recently moved to Chelsea, Michigan, the home of the Ugly Dog Distillery.)

So here I am. It's the second Saturday I've been home. I had a few beers with my dad in San Francisco and some Kraken Black Spiced Rum at a dinner party with an old friend in Las Vegas proper...that's it. No cocktails. I was dying for a good belt of something. So I reached for The Bartender's Bible, flipped to the section on vodka, and what's the first drink I see?

This one:

  • 1½ ounces vodka
  • 1 ounce Drambuie

Pour both ingredients into a rocks glass half-filled with ice cubes. Stir well. 

Let's get one thing straight: Drambuie. It's honeyed Scotch liqueur, in case you haven't read any of my other cocktail reviews. And I love it. It's one of my favorite liqueurs in the world...or it was, before some wingnut decided to change the recipe. The bottle now looks like this: 



In the good old days, though, it looked like this: 


Culturally South Korea is a little behind the U.S., and matters booze-related are no exception. As the bottles of Drambuie made to the old recipe vanished from American shelves, a few holdouts remained on South Korean ones, and that's where I found mine. I think the new Drambuie tastes like cough syrup. I even did a video taste-test to that effect. I don't know where it's gone, otherwise I'd post it for your edification. 

Anyway, if you're going to make the Aberfoyle or any other Drambuie highball, make sure you've got the old recipe in the old bottle, not the new one. Yuck. The original recipe is (always) better.

What does the Aberfoyle taste like? Shockingly good. Vodka being a necklace of negatives, it absorbs and accentuates flavors, and with Drambuie there's plenty to accentuate: malt whisky, honey, herbs, and spices. One of my other favorite highballs is the rusty nail, wherein the Scotch and Drambuie really play off of each other; but with the Aberfoyle, the vodka sits back and lets the Drambuie shine. Consider the Aberfoyle a milder version of the rusty nail, but be warned: it packs a punch. There are no mitigating factors here. This drink has only two ingredients, and both are alcoholic...and the highball itself goes down smooth as butter. Mind you don't overdo it. 

Until next time... 

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

a day in Singapore

I woke up at eight o'clock.

I passed a bundle of laundry to the desk clerk.

I asked for a towel and got one.

I showered and shaved. 

I marched down Kitchener and Serangoon Roads to the Mustafa Centre, where I exchanged 220 Thai baht, 10 U.S. dollars, and 361 Malaysian ringgit for 161 Singapore dollars. 

While I was there, I bought a padlock for my defunct locker back at Tresor Tavern.

All this I accomplished before eleven o'clock. 

I went back to the hostel and sat in the lobby, sweating, updating my journals and letting my parents know I was still alive. I also spent some time writing down the addresses of everything I wanted to see and eat in this town today (Thursday, July 31). 

I went to Chinatown to check out the Heritage Centre and was told it cost $10 SGD to get in. 

I said "Screw that with a pitchfork." 


I went to the foodie street and had some laksa, a spicy noodle soup in greasy orange broth which is central to Peranakan (Chinese-Malay) cuisine and Malaysia's national dish. It consists of rice vermicelli (though this touristy dump used spaghetti) in coconut milk and curry broth. My bowl included hard-boiled eggs, cockles, bean curd puffs, and bean sprouts, and cost $4.50 SGD.

I did not take a food selfie. Too hungry. 

On an impulse I walked across South Bridge Street and caught the open-top sightseeing bus for $25 SGD. We swung out west, down shady, tree-lined Havelock and Zion Roads, curving up to the Botanical Gardens (the one thing in Singapore that I didn't see and wish I had). Then we went dead east on Orchard Road. As clean, bright, and shiny as this city was, dazzlingly clear as it dried from the previous night's rain, there wasn't much to it besides shopping, eating, and authoritarianism. "HAPPY 49th BIRTHDAY, SINGAPORE!" squawked loud orange banners on every lamppost, but on the subway trains were stern admonishments to the citizens to be polite when boarding or exiting, to move to the back or offer your seat to an invalid. Public service announcements printed starkly in black, white, and red urged citizens to perform the vital five-step method to eradicate dengue fever (promptly emptying every container on your property of standing water). 

What was most jarring was seeing so many Occidental franchises. Malaysia and even Cambodia had KFC and Starbucks, and Seoul has Burger King and McDonalds and Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, but Singapore was just mad—Long John Silver's, California Pizza Kitchen, Coldstone Creamery, Quizno's Subs, and everything else British or American. I was disappointed. Foreign excursions are supposed to be...well, foreign. And I hated to think that the average Singaporean's idea of western culture was a soggy McDonald's sandwich, some limp fries and a syrupy soft drink. 


The Singapore River. Really takes your breath away, doesn't it? 

After a short foray north and east to Sungei Road, the sightseeing bus dumped us out at the Singapore Flyer. Think the London Eye, but bigger—"the world's tallest observation wheel," proclaimed the posters and brochures. That was a blatant falsehood, as the High Roller in Las Vegas is actually taller, but I'm not the quibbling type—not when sweat's soaking my collar and the red bandanna I'd tied around my right hand and wrist for mopping and sopping purposes. 

Pro tip, kids: this is more fashionable than wrapping it around your forehead and more sanitary than sticking it back in your pocket after every wipe. Just be prepared for lots of concerned fellow travelers to ask you how you hurt your wrist. 

I caught the next bus to Clarke Quay and switched to the metro. I went back to the hostel, rested, rehydrated, and wrote some postcards (the fifth of seven batches). At 6:45, a time I judged with a pilot's careful precision, I caught a taxicab back to the Flyer to see the sunset from on high. 

The Flyer isn't very popular with the locals. According to TIME, they gripe that it's too far away from everything and costs too much. I didn't sympathize with the former sentiment but certainly the latter: tickets were $33 SGD. Concordantly, there wasn't much of a crowd. I rolled up at seven o'clock, bought a ticket, hustled through all the supplementary bullshit they put up to make waiting in line more interesting—planetariums and historical placards and whatnot—and got some fantastic views of the downtown area and Marina Bay. 





Then, of course, I went to O'Leary's Sports Bar & Grill—foreigner-owned and foreigner-run, looking like it had sprung from any broad boulevard in the Inland Empire—for a nightcap. What else but a Singapore sling? 


It was weak and sickly-sweet and cost $17 SGD, but what the hell. I can say I've had a Singapore sling in Singapore. 

I'd meant to sample the best that Little India could offer me in the way of eats, but my internal compass was taking a much-deserved rest. I couldn't find my intended destination, Bali Nasi Lemak in Geylang. So I went back to the neighborhood of my hostel and sat down in the same little halal Sri Lankan/Thai cafeteria where that snaggle-toothed Samaritan Singaporean had bought me a bottle of water the previous evening. I had some iced lychee juice and a plate of nasi goreng thai for just $4.50 SGD. For afters I had some sort of fried fish dumpling, also delectable. I couldn't discern the waiter's thick Tamil accent when I asked what it was. Sounded like "kampop." 

I got an A&W root beer for dessert (you don't see those every day in Asia) and returned to the hostel to update my journals. My time in Singapore was at an end. The next morning I would mail postcards, check out of the Tresor Tavern at noon, and catch the metro for Changi Airport. 

If you'd like to find out why I hate Singapore, come back tomorrow. 

Saturday, September 27, 2014

an evening in George Town, Penang

Travel Truth #7: Holidays and festivals can throw some delightful zest into your trip. Or a monkey wrench.

Things began to go seriously wrong the moment I stepped off the International Express train in Butterworth, Malaysia, fresh off the overnight ride from Bangkok. While the other passengers took the long walk up a series of elevated ramps to the ferry jetty, I turned right, crossed the tracks, and went to the station office to check on train tickets to Singapore. 

There weren't any. As in, none. Zero. Zip. Nada. 

I didn't realize that Ramadan leaped around so much. I thought it was pretty much a winter holiday, and that's that. I didn't comprehend that the vagaries of the Islamic calendar could place Ramadan, say, in the midst of summer, but so it had. It seems that I had arrived in Malaysia right at the beginning of Hari Raya Puasa, the "Day of Celebrating the End of Fasting." Today and tomorrow (July 28-29), every Mohammedan in Malaysia (and Singapore and Brunei and the Philippines) would be home with their family, stuffing themselves silly and giving thanks to Allah. All the train tickets back to Singapore were booked up through the end of the week. 

Shoot. 

Resolving to worry about all this later, I hefted by backpack, sauntered out into the broiling sunshine, and traipsed my way along the elevated walkways to the ferry jetty. 

The line was about 50 miles long. Twin rows of Malays (mostly young men, I noticed) stood upon the cracked concrete of the shady walkway, arms folded, talking amongst themselves as they waited their turn for a ride to Penang, a medium-sized island just a kilometer or two off the coast, its humped green back just visible in the hazy distance. There were a couple of portly, black-uniformed policeman patrolling the crowd, casting disapproving eyes at the loud and boisterous, their keen eyes seeking out any women and hustling them to the front of the line. One of these policemen spotted me. His eyes swept over me, taking in my misshapen hat, sweat-soaked clothes, lumpy backpack, and ridiculous flip-flop tan, and then darted away like a startled fish.

A second policeman with dark sunglasses came along a few minutes later and motioned me out of line and to the front. Gratefully, I humped my backpack another 200 yards, past a line that would surely have meant two or three hours of waiting, paid my fare, rode across the strait, and spent about a 30 fruitless minutes searching for my hotel (and nearly melting in the process) before a kindly cabbie picked me up and took me there.  

I checked into the Red Inn Court, which wasn't as new or modern or large as Boxpackers in Bangkok but nonetheless clean and serviceable. Thereupon I took three hours to cool off, both literally and figuratively. I also had to wait until after 6:00, when the noodle joints opened up. Then I sauntered into the gentler but still sultry evening, found an open-air greasy spoon crowded with locals (always a good sign) and ordered a plate of delicious, savory char koay teow, noodles stir-fried in rich dark sauce. This particular variety had chicken and shrimp. I sat across the table from a Brazilian fellow named Gabriel who lived and worked in Singapore, and found it horribly boring. We talked, mostly of the shittiness of Asian beer and the emergence of craft brew. 



I sloped a few feet west down Lebuh Chulia to the Hong Kong Bar, a cramped closet of a place with an eclectic mix of rustic decorations, Chinese paper lanterns and WWII British Army jungle hats being the most prominent. Best bar in Asia, bar none. I sat at one of the tables out in front, right next to a pillar, and had seven Tiger beers (for a total of 77 ringgit, or about $23.50). The sun set beyond Penang Hill, lighting the low, glowering clouds a lambent yellow ochre overhead and a fulgent papaya nearer the horizon. Drag queens, ladyboys, tourists, and benighted foreigners strode past and kit cars and scooters zoomed by at ridiculous speeds. I chatted with the Chinese-Malaysian proprietress, an English man and his articulate Chinese wife at the next table, and a youngish Russian woman named Eugenya. She was a scuba diving instructor and was living in Thailand, but was down in Malaysia doing a visa run. She and I were united by literature—both of us were quite well-read, and we discussed our favorite works, Russian and otherwise. One of the most controversial topics we discussed was the plus side and perks of racism—yes, we thought of several good ones. We shared a few off-color jokes between us, including ones at Russians' and Americans' expense. 

All in all, it was a magical evening. As I sat there with a bellyful of horrid Malay beer and the fires of a glorious sunset still dying a slow death in the western sky, the Chinese-Malaysian proprietress laughing at my jokes and slapping me on the shoulder, I could see myself happily moving to George Town and sitting in the Hong Kong Bar and doing some of my best writing. And living. 

Monday, September 15, 2014

snake wine in Cambodia

First, you should see what it is.

Second, you should see what it looks like.

Third, you should know that I still wanted to try it, even though I understood both of these things in advance. 

I happened to see a souvenir market set up on the broad, palm-shaded grounds of Angkor Wat, so I stopped over to have a look. I had intended to give snake wine a taste in either southern China or Vietnam, where its consumption, I assumed, was more widespread and commonplace. No opportunity presented itself. You may imagine my delight when I saw bottles of snake wine being sold at this Cambodian market, then. I picked a small bottle, talked the saleswoman down from $8 to $5 (though I probably could have gotten it for $4) and took it back to the King Boutique Hotel with me to sample.


Here's the video.


Now, I know what's going through your head. Two thoughts, roughly along the lines of "Eww gross, I wouldn't touch that stuff with a ten-foot pole," and "Why would anyone in their right mind want to drink that?"

Well, there's two things you should know. Number one, I am not in my right mind. I've been eating strange things on this blog for five years now. Number two, snake wine is a thing in Southeast Asia, because...

...well, like so many other weird foods and exotic animal products in the Orient, snake wine is believed to be a cure-all. The Chinese, Vietnamese, Taiwanese, and other-ese loudly insist that the stuff will fix everything from hair loss to farsightedness. Oh, and it increases male sexual performance as well. Holy schla-moly, if I had a nickel for every nostrum that the Asians claim improves male stamina, I wouldn't be sitting here in a hipster café off Gwangnaru Road writing about it. 

Anyway, I just thought you should see me drinking a bottle of bathtub tequila with a dead cobra in it. Don't you feel special?

Friday, September 12, 2014

Ho Chi Minh City, day three

By prior agreement, nobody in our little clique stirred before noon. We recuperated separately at our respective rooms and convened at 12:30 to revisit the Hungry Pig for some more of their cracking bacon sandwiches. They weren't chintzy with the HP Sauce this time around, either. I went the whole hog, so to speak, and got a fried egg on mine this time. 

Then we split up for the day. Jeff went off with Adam for a foodie crawl across Saigon's underbelly while Jenn and I caught a cab to Notre Dame. 




I also managed to sneak into the big colonial post office and send off some postcards to friends and family. 



I was in a bad way. My cheap Airwalk flip-flops were already three months old by the time I took them on this trip, and all the tread had been worn off the soles. This left me with zero traction on the rain-slicked Saigon sidewalks. I was slipping and sliding all over the place. I came damn near to breaking a leg (or a neck) half a dozen times. It was as if every inch of the ubiquitous square-cut cement tiles with which sidewalks in Southeast Asia are paved was covered with black ice. I prayed to Our Lady of Surface Tension to save my hide as Jenn and I marched to the national history museum, shabby but informative. 


We had a nice nap and then met with Jeff and Adam at 5:30. Jeff clung to the back of Adam's sleek black scooter like a terrified limpet. We caught a cab to the Bitexco Financial Tower, rode an express elevator to the 52nd floor, and drank Manhattans and Long Island iced teas for 290,000 VND apiece (fifteen U.S. dollars!).

The invisible sun sank down behind the murky overcast and Uncle Ho's damp, water-stained namesake city grew dark. The high-rises and spiderweb streets lit up and Saigon was suddenly indistinguishable from any other 21st-century metropolis. Jeff, Jenn, and Adam schmoozed about how fun the place was, but as I sat there with them and stared out the rain-streaked window, I felt nothing but disgust. I was fed up with the garbage piles in the streets, the homicidal scooter drivers, the persistent hawkers, the mawkish artificiality of modernized Asian culture, the pervading sense of cultural smugness about the outcome of an old war, and a thousand other things. I wasn't ready to part company with my pals just yet, but I was eager to get on with my trip and get out of this benighted country. 

I did get a consolation prize that evening, though. Stacey showed up with a friend, Danielle, and we all got a cab to May, a very upscale restaurant in Ward Dakao, District 1. We walked through a dark alley for a few dozen meters until the imposing facade of a restored colonial villa emerged seductively from behind a veil of arica palms like a forgotten but welcoming mistress. Smiling, skinny waiters in light cotton shirts ushered us inside, past the steamy kitchen with its enormous glass windows and up a narrow mahogany staircase to a parlor-like dining room decorated in the vintage French style. Billing itself as one of the healthiest and tastiest restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City ("NO MSG!" screamed the mission statement on the menu's first page), May employs top-shelf ingredients and French-trained chefs to craft a staggering array of delectable fusion dishes. I had the chicken soup, the stuffed squid, the prawns in tamarind sauce, and even a dollop of choco-coffee ice cream. The portion sizes were generous and yet my end of the bill came to just 260,000 dong, not quite $15—the price of a single cocktail on the 52nd floor of the Bitexco Financial Tower. 

After that scrumptious meal (in fine company) there was nothing to do but go back to Green Suites and pack up my things. I'd be leaving on the bus for Phnom Penh the next day at eight o'clock sharp. During our Skype chat that evening, Miss H and I came to a rather momentous decision—one whose repercussions I feel even as I sit here typing this post. We agreed that she would quit her job at Gangnam SLP and return home to the Mojave, while I would stay in Korea only as long as it would take to finish up the fall semester at Sejong University. My thoughts that night were full of the task ahead. As I noted in my journal, "I need to find a place to live..."

Ha-ha. Wait until I tell you about how all that fell out. But it'll have to wait until this travel tale is done. Next up: the first Cambodia post. 

Saturday, June 21, 2014

cocktail review no. 77 - Paleo Margarita

I don't know whether you guys are into the Paleo diet or not, but this is something my mum ran across in one of her cookbooks and forwarded to me when I called to remind my parents what my voice sounds like on Father's Day. We're getting close to the dog days of summer over here in K-Land and the days have turned still, sultry, and moist. Now's the time to start trotting out the cold, refreshing highballs with light-colored liquors, fruity liqueurs, and citrus juices: the Moscow Mule, the Gimlet, the Bullfrog and the Cactus Bite. All are cool and delicious, but they have one major drawback—they're all sickeningly sweet. If you're like me and you're tired of swallowing eight tablespoons of sugar in your Piña Colada, your Zombie, your Tidal Wave, or your Planter's Punch, then get with the program and have a Paleo cocktail. This one. 

  •  squeeze the juice from half a lime into the bottom of a rocks glass
  •  add 2 shots of tequila and a measure of club soda
  •  pour the mixture into cocktail glass and sip it slowly

I'll tell you what my parents told me: do not judge this drink on the first glass. Have one on Friday night and another on Saturday night and then pass judgment. Why? Well, as you may be able to tell from the ingredients, this tipple is tart. Lip-puckeringly, tongue-stingingly, tooth-burningly, uvula-curdlingly sour. There's not an atom of sugar in it. It's kind of like the rickey cocktail, but with a higher proportion of citrus juice and less club soda. Most drinks with lime or lemon juice have some kind of sweet additive to balance the sourness out (like the Sidecar, for example). Not so with this libation. It'll make your scalp crawl. 

But as you nurse your second glass, sitting and sweating on your porch or veranda or balcony and watching the sinking sun and the reddening clouds while the gnats buzz about your ears and the day's oppressive heat begins to abdicate its tyrannical reign, you'll start liking this drink. It's got everything you need: the spicy heat of tequila, the pleasant fizz of club soda, and the nostril-wrinkling nip of lime. Perfect for relaxing after a long day's exertions or swapping war stories with the boys at the cabana. 


Or impressing the discerning Paleolithic woman. 

Sunday, June 1, 2014

klutzy May-June weekend

I've never thought of myself as clumsy, but when you factor in my immoderate and lazy behavior, accidents are almost bound to happen. 


I'm happy to announce that there have been no complications from my appendectomy. I'm completely healed. I have some hairline scars on my abdomen and some staple wounds which are still healing up, but apart from that I'm cured. I just need to avoid lifting heavy objects for six weeks.

I still think I'm going to die soon, though.  

I'm talking about last Friday night (May 30), when I was walking home—admittedly under the influence of makgeolli and beer—and stopped by a public restroom near the Yangjae Stream. The stalls were somewhat cramped, which I learned to my cost when I stood up somewhat abruptly and smashed my head against the toilet-paper dispenser. 

Just...don't ask. Please. It happened, all right? That's all you need to know. 

Anyway, my head was somewhat fuzzy (makgeolli or concussion, I don't know) so I didn't really notice that I had hit myself hard enough to draw blood. This precluded me from putting antibiotic ointment on my noggin, and...

...well, sure enough, I came down with a head cold on Saturday, May 31, which prostrated me all through Sunday. Even on this warm, damp, drizzly morning of June 2, I'm not still wholly back together. Infection-induced, no doubt. What a sap I am. 

And speaking of sap, what kind of moron doesn't use hot pads to remove a scalding-hot bowl of oatmeal from the microwave? Me, that's who. The same moron who, early this morning, touched the hottest part of the bowl, dropped the bowl, tried to catch the bowl and stuck both his hands knuckle-deep into said scalding-hot oatmeal. I am now typing on this keyboard with several first-degree burns on my fingers.

I hope there isn't a university-sponsored polo match this weekend, or I'm a goner. 


There isn't too much other news. Miss H and I went to see X-Men: Days of Future Past on Thursday evening, and both got a kick out of it. We also got our Hong Kong accommodations booked, so all the hotels 'n' stuff have been taken care of for my big Southeast Asia tour in July and August. (Now I just need to reserve my train tickets.) I had a lovely time with some of my work buddies on Friday night, drinking that aforementioned makgeolli and eating tofu (dubu in Korean) made from cactus in Achasan, near Gwangnaru, where Miss H and I used to live. Then I went to a barbecue in Maebong later that night with one of the dudes I brew with and his buddies, and nearly cracked my skull open in a public restroom around 12:30 a.m. Then I spent the weekend being sick. I'll spend the three days of my workweek (Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday) conducting writing assessments. On Thursday evening (which is technically a Friday, as we have a three-day weekend this week) I'll have a drink with Sang-ook, the Korean fellow I shared a ward room with when I got my appendix out a couple of weeks ago. I promise I won't hit my head on anything this time. 

No, really. Honest.

Monday, February 17, 2014

Hokkaido diary: a weekend in Busan

2/8: 

11:30 a.m. This'll be the last entry. Meant to write it last night, but a lot of stuff happened.

Landing and disembarking [from the New Camellia] were a breeze. I'm getting to be an old pro at this. Out the hatch, down the ramp, along the skyways, through immigration and customs, out the doors to the ₩1000 Busan Station bus, and through traffic to the station. I stashed my stuff in lockers, grabbed a snack (odeng and ddeokbokki, ₩4000) and spent the next three hours flailing around the area of Nampo, Jungang and the station trying to find a hotel. Busan Tourist Hotel was cheap, but the rooms were old and shabby and reeked of secondhand smoke. Tower Hill Inn, a hundred yards away (so named because it sits at the foot of Busan Tower in Nampo-dong) was way too expensive—₩220,000 per night. I settled on the Tokoyo Inn—cheaper, cleaner, brighter, and near the station. Then I met Adam and his girlfriend Stacey for wang galbi and beer and soju. Adam is reading my novel manuscript. He described it to Stacey and it was like watching a machine I'd built start up and go for the first time. It was wonderful. Stacey expressed interest, and Adam did nothing but praise me (he always does that). I walked out of there with my head the size of a Buick. 

Then I grabbed Miss H at the station, took her to the hotel, and we both passed out. Now we're up and around, getting ready to see the tower, the park beneath it, Nampo Shopping Street, and just make a day of it. Postie out. 
THE END


And so it came to pass that Miss H and I enjoyed a wonderful weekend in Busan. On Saturday we shopped, ate and drank to our hearts' content, toured Yongdusan Park and Busan Tower (pictured above), had dinner with our lovely friend Jenn (congratulations on your recent engagement!) and sped home on the KTX on Sunday happy and fulfilled. 

The view south from Busan Tower, looking over the fishing fleets in the portion of the harbor west of Mount Bongrae.

And now I'm back in Seoul, taking walks, exploring the city, reading, writing, and frantically trying to extend my visa, switch my status from E-2 (foreign instructor) to E-1 (foreign professor), notify the immigration authorities of my impending change of address, head to the Driver's License Authority to get a temporary international driver's license so Miss H and I can rent a car and move our stuff from our apartment in Gwangnaru to our new two-bedroom apartment in...

...drum roll, please...

...GANGNAM!

Sunday, January 26, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 26: take the Marine Corps fitness test


[pant, pant]

Well, I'm back.

[whew]

I took the test and the results are in. I now know precisely how out of shape I am. The only bright side to this humiliation is that I knew it was coming. I scrolled down through the list of challenges back in early January just to see what I was in for, and I saw this one and groaned. Physical fitness is, bar none, the area in which I am the least manly. I'm a flabby, wheezing blob. The last time I was in decent shape was when I was thirteen and in the High Desert Youth Soccer League.

I've always hated physical exertion. Some people get high on it, but I despise it. Even playing sports is barely tolerable for me. I am an imaginative fellow, an intellectual and bookish daydreamer, and to me there's nothing more monotonous (both mentally and physically) than putting my muscles, heart and lungs through their paces. I've heard a lot of runners and bicyclists claim that they get into "the zone," let their mind wander and get all calm and meditative and blabbity blabbity blah. Not me, no sir. To me it's just torture. Moreover, I'm an Epicurean and a hedonist. I love food and booze. But the better it tastes the more unhealthy it is. (Korean food is a notable exception to this, which is why I was able to drop 20 pounds in 2008-2009 by eating Korean and taking long walks by the Gohyeon River. I've since gained it all back.)


I know that this is no excuse for being out of shape, but I'm just explaining my position.

Okay. Ready for a good laugh? The maximum score on the Marine Corps fitness test is 300. To attain this score, you have to do at least 20 pull-ups (without a time limit), 100 crunches (in two minutes or less), and run three miles in 18 minutes.

My score was 70. 

A measly 70 points. 

Good grief.

Here were the final figures: 
  • pull-ups: nearly 1
  • crunches: 70 (guess where all of my points came from?)
  • 3-mile run: 47 minutes
I'd previously marked out a five-kilometer (3.1-mile) course near my apartment, along the riverside jogging paths in Hangang Park: Gwangnaru Station to Gangbyeon Station, then across the Jamsil Railway Bridge, then back upstream to the foot of the Gwangjin Bridge. I'd never run it before today, however, and that might have been my undoing. I'd been doing all my training at the gym, and those dang treadmills must have been lying to me, because according to their little digital readouts I can do five kilometers in 40 minutes flat. But for some reason it took me nearly 50 today. Maybe I didn't mark it out properly, I don't know.

The other mistake I made was to do the pull-ups (well, pull-up, singular) first. Humiliation is not the best feeling to have when you're starting a 3-mile run. Needless to say, I was feeling mighty low by the time I got back to the apartment. The crunches helped bolster my self-esteem a little bit, but then I went on The Art of Manliness's Day 26 page and discovered that I'd run so slowly and was so pathetic at pull-ups that I hadn't even scored a single point. My score came solely from my crunches, and that's it.

Whoof. Where's the whiskey?

Oh well. A real man shakes humiliation off and tries harder. I still intend to be able to run three miles in 18 minutes someday (and by "someday" I mean sometime this year). I'm going to have to try a lot harder though. It looked to me like I was running my head off this afternoon, but I didn't even score. Sheesh. Pathetic. In the shape I am now, I can do 0.6 kilometers nonstop (barely 0.37 miles).

Baby steps, baby steps.

Jog on back for Day 27.

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 21: write your own eulogy


Read the article before you do anything else. It explains how today's challenge isn't really as morbid as it sounds. What better way to understand that your life is finite and that you need to get off your duff and live it than writing your own eulogy? Facing your mortality will give you greater cause to live each day with purpose. 

In fact, writing my own eulogy gave me almost too much perspective. Knowing that life is fleeting and temporary made me wonder about all those hours I've been spending at the gym. Surely I could be out in the fresh air or sampling the finest wines and foods instead of breathing recirculated air, grunting and sweating. One of the reasons I've never managed to stick with any exercise regimen is that I always get the creeping sense that I'm wasting my time. The two hours I spend lifting weights and jogging on a treadmill could be used in so many more constructive ways: writing short stories, planning novel plot lines, researching historical epochs, learning Korean, exploring Seoul, etc, etc. I always get the feeling that I'm using up an insane amount of my precious lifespan doing something that's of no material benefit. 

Not true, of course. Working out is healthy. And I don't mean to insinuate that I actually would use those extra two hours constructively if I stopped going to the gym. But hey, I never said my mind was logical. I just said that I found it hard to stick with exercise plans because my mind started working against me.

Anyway. Here's my eulogy: 

Andrew Post was a wanderer from the beginning. He was born in 1986 in Auburn, California, but didn't stay there very long. He called many places home during his youth: southern Ohio, rural Tennessee, urban Virginia, the California desert, the plains of Wyoming. As a small boy he kept his nose glued to the airplane windows, looking at the big world going by beneath him and vowing that he would see it all someday. 

It was this same intrepidity which drew him to North Dakota State University, far from his home in Southern California. (That, and the lack of an admission deadline.) He felt that a career in zoology was his ticket to travel and adventure. After a bad run-in with advanced chemistry, however, he switched his major to communication, graduating in 2007 with a degree in journalism and broadcasting and an English minor. If he couldn't study the big wide world of mountains, trees, animals and people, he figured he would write about it instead. 

A nationwide job market slump forced Andrew to seek his fortunes abroad. He spent four nonconsecutive years as an expatriate English teacher in South Korea, two as a professor at Sejong University in Seoul. During this time, he became an avid blogger, sold travel articles to online magazines and wrote several historical and science fiction novels. Despite his journalistic pursuits, it had always been Andrew's intention to be a writer. His debut novel Revival won him fame and fortune when it was published in 2016. He'd sent one of the first drafts to me a few months earlier. I remember critiquing it harshly and telling him flat-out that it was crap. "Thanks," he said. "Now I know I need to do better." And he did. He told me afterward that the greatest accomplishment of his life, besides finding a woman who was willing to reproduce with him, was winning the Nebula Award for Best Novel that same year. 

In August of 2013, Andrew proposed to his long-time girlfriend at Tokyo Disneyland. He would always say, "It was the smartest thing I ever did, asking that woman to marry me." The two wed upon their return from South Korea in 2015 and had three beautiful children, Zebulon, Aurora and Gilbert. Though Andrew was often far from home on one globetrotting adventure or another, he always made sure to be there for his children, for birthdays and Christmases, triumphs and tragedies. He raised his kids to be independent, forthright and principled people who pursued their dreams without fear or compunction. 

Anyone who met Andrew knew that his list of hobbies and interests was a long one. He was an energetic auto-didact and read whatever he could find about history, astronomy, technology, and the natural sciences. On the fiction front, he adored adventure tales, notably science fiction but occasionally dipping into fantasy and mainstream fiction as well. He loved aviation, becoming a pilot at the age of 24 and flying throughout his life. He took a great interest in classic and vintage cocktails, mixing and sampling as many as he could and even inventing a few of his own. The cocktail bar he ran out of his first apartment in South Korea was legendary among the expatriate community. Shooting was another hobby of his, and whenever he was able he'd get a group of friends together and head to the range. He was happiest after a long day of trapshooting, off-roading, flying, or hiking, sitting in a comfortable chair within view of a good sunset, a glass of Scotch in his hand and a lit pipe between his teeth. His greatest love, however, was travel. There were very few countries that Andrew didn't want to see, and he spent a lifetime traveling all over the world and writing about it in his journals. He sent me many postcards and pictures from the road. The best of these was the one I got in the winter of 2023. It was a photo of Andy standing in front of the statue of the Virgin Mary on San Cristóbal Hill in Santiago, Chile. He'd scrawled a message to me on the back: "This town is great! I might just retire here." In his lifetime he set foot on all seven continents and explored over sixty countries. He told me once that if there was a single place on his bucket list that he missed, he'd die a regretful man. I think he managed to avoid that unpleasant scenario. He and his wife retired to Santiago in 2046, just before Andy's 60th birthday. He opened a bar and spent the last two decades of his life plying thirsty Chileans and expatriates with delicious drinks and regaling them with tales of his life.

Andrew, or Andy as his friends called him, was a rare soul: a fellow who went against the grain, but didn't hold it against you if you didn't follow. He thrived in adversity, worked hard under pressure and always put a cheerful face on things. He could lighten any awkward situation with a lame but well-timed pun. He was intensely loyal to his friends and would never speak ill about one of them behind their backs. He did his level best at work and maintained a professional and industrious demeanor while on the job. His employers and friends alike could rely on him to go the extra mile. He always had an interesting tidbit to share about any given topic, and had away of explaining things that made them interesting and worthwhile. He would never pass a bum on the street without flipping him a quarter. He often failed to live up to his own standards, but he never quit trying.

I will miss Andy's intolerable puns. I'll miss his goofy grin. I'll miss his impeccable taste in movies, whiskey, and cigars. I'll miss flying with him over the Mojave Desert and the Alaskan wilderness. I'll miss his mouth-watering vegetarian lasagna. I'll miss his kindness, his optimism and his endless cheer. I'll miss the Santa Claus beard he grew in his old age, and the free gin and pipe tobacco he'd ply me with whenever I visited him in Chile. I'll miss the roaring adventures he wrote about in his novels, and the adventures the two of us had together. I'll miss the sight of him climbing, grinning, out of his trusty Jeep after a particularly challenging hill or patch of mud. But most of all I'll miss his imagination. Nothing was impossible for Andy; he dreamed big and he never lost sight of his goals. He'd always see the funny or wacky side to any situation. With his passing, the world has become a bit darker. But I know that we've all learned a little something from his novelist's mind, his punster's mouth and his go-getter style. Wherever he wanders now, I wish him all the best. 

Thursday, January 16, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 16: create a budget


This is something I've desperately needed to do. My finances have always been the weakest link in my life. I keep receipts, but they wind up in a big Ziploc bag (or worse, an untidy heap) in a drawer somewhere, unsifted and disorganized. I don't keep track of how much I spend per month, so what I have left over before and after payday always comes as a complete shock. As such, while living in Korea, I've probably been spent a bit too much money on things that don't matter: pipe tobacco, whiskey, sushi, and overpriced appetizers served up by rude Bulgarians. This is a hell of a way to run a railroad, particularly since I have some rather large expenditures in mind when I get home to the States: marriage, children, an instrument rating and a commercial pilot's license, among others. Jeez, you'd think I'd be better at this. My sign is Libra, after all.

So, to amend this reprehensible state of affairs, I set aside today to create a budget, as per the instructions on The Art of Manliness's website. I won't go into too much numerical detail. Telling you how much I make (or worse, how much I spend) each month would be indiscreet. I'll just say that I followed the directions to the letter: I determined my monthly income, totted up all my fixed expenses, and set a goal for the variable ones. I had to get Miss H's help with some things. Since her school is renting out this apartment for us, most of the utilities come out of her paycheck (except for Internet, which I pay for). We split the difference each month. We also try to limit Costco runs to once per month, 'cause everything there is so danged expensive. We've been eating out a bit too much, too. But anyway: Miss H worked up a lovely utilities spreadsheet for me, and using it I managed to come up with a number. It's what I should have left over after all expenses are said and done (barring incidentals and fun) and I'm going to try to stick as close to it as possible.

(I was tempted to use Mint, which is what the author of the AoM article recommended. But something tells me it won't work as well with Korean won as it will with American dollars. I think I'll wait until I get back to the States to get into web-based budgets and spreadsheets.)

Now the only hard part's going to be keeping track of my monthly expenditures — 
although, thanks to the bank books that are so popular here in Korea, my checkbook balances itself. I'll just have to remember to glance at it every month and make sure I've stayed in the black.

And now you must excuse me. I have to go see if I have enough wiggle room for a new iPod Nano. I want to grab one before I head off to Hokkaido. Please loiter around for Day 17. 

Monday, January 13, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 13: declutter your life


Hoo boy. Aside from memorizing that dang poem, this is the only one of these challenges that's actually been something like hard work. I am a pack rat and it's high time I ditched some of this junk.

What junk, you ask? The Art of Manliness says to focus on things like books, papers, mail, and clothes, but I also paid attention to useless things like cheap toys and gewgaws and stuff that just takes up space. I combed through the apartment and I found this crap: 


  • piles upon piles of old receipts
  • an empty key ring
  • miscellaneous plastic tools
  • a heap of old Airplane Owners & Pilots Association magazines
  • two or three wrinkled, ripped old Seoul tour maps
  • heaps of ticket stubs, travel brochures, and maps from cities across Asia
  • my derelict Nook
  • some fatuous Diversity Amid Globalization textbook
  • tax forms in need of sorting
  • my old blaze orange travel wallet with the Norwegian flag
  • a much-abused trail map of Bukhansan National Park
  • an unread copy of Sky & Telescope magazine I picked up in a Korean bookstore ages ago
  • a plastic bag of dead AA batteries

...and plenty more besides. So I bagged it all up and got it out of the apartment. Or at least I will, when I figure out where I'm supposed to get rid of batteries. And I kind of want to burn my old receipts instead of releasing them into that fraud-stricken world.

But the point is that I feel much better. I do feel like a more organized and less cluttered person now. I went ahead and re-folded and reorganized all the clothes in my closet while I was at it, and it's all squeaky-clean. It's strange what a little tidying up will do for one's psyche.

Now if only it would help me write the climax of Novel #3...

Wednesday, January 8, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 9: take a woman on a date

The title's a bit deceptive. As the rules on The Art of Manliness state, today's the day you should ask a woman out. You still have 72 hours or so to plan a kick-ass date.


As with several of these challenges, you have options depending on your situation. If you're a single guy, this is your chance to pull yourself out of the rut: you know, get out there and actually start dating (or maybe just wrench yourself free of the friend zone). If you're in a committed relationship, this is a welcome opportunity to put some spark back into it. I tell you what: living in a tiny studio apartment with your significant other is a real romance-killer. I don't care what you say. You could be living with Joan of Arc and after six months you'd start to get ticked off at the way she talks to invisible people. I, for one, relish the notion of getting out of this sardine can and into the real world with Miss H, there to rediscover why we fell in love in the first place.

Mission accomplished. I asked her out, and I now have some reservations to make. We resolved some time ago to make more frequent trips to Itaewon, Seoul's foreigner district. It's laden with loads of Western food markets and international cuisine options, from Bulgarian to Paraguayan to South African. I reckon I'll take her to Chef Meili's, an Austrian place within spitting distance of the subway station. Owned and operated by a genuine, classically-trained Austrian chef (whose surname is Meilinger), the joint is renowned for its delectable dishes, particularly its meats and desserts. Meat and dessert are two things Miss H and I scarcely eat anymore, thanks to cultural, dietary and budget constraints. It'll be nice to let our hair down a bit. I reckon we'll have ourselves a nice feed at Meili's and then slide a couple doors down to Gecko's and knock back a few frou-frou shooters. We'll talk and chat and sparkle like the old days, and then slide home for a movie and some hot cocoa. I'll report back to you after the actual date has taken place.

Does that sound like fun, ladies? 

Friday, December 6, 2013

Busan blowout

The Wonder Girls, one of Korea's most popular K-Pop groups (temporarily disbanded thanks to Sunye's marriage). 
Time for another Christmas party in Geoje (near enough to Busan for me to capitalize on the alliterative opportunity)!

Miss H and I are catching the 8:10 KTX from Seoul Station this morning. Once in Busan, we'll ride the subway out to Hadan, grab the old Geoje bus, cross the bridge, get another bus to Okpo, and then finally wind up where we need to be: J&J's apartment, full of mulled beverages and warm spirits. Free accommodations, too. J&J always pull out the stops for everybody and they treat us right.

That gingery IPA the fellas and I brewed last weekend will be ready to bottle when I return. I've faithfully taken hydrometer readings every day and the specific gravity has settled right around 1.016-1.017. A bit high perhaps (most beers settle between 1.005 and 1.015, I'm told), but palatable. It tastes gingery and hoppy, too, so I'm content. 


There are a few things I want to talk to you about when I get back. First off, I think I've finally solved my V.D.Q.—in a way that might surprise you. I've essentially decided to go nowhere at all this winter. There are money issues involved, yes, but other factors as well. Let's talk 'em over.

As for reading, I'm still working my way through Tolstoy's Anna Karenina (at an iceberg's pace), and The Great Shark Hunt by Hunter S. Thompson (I may have to go ahead and read the other three volumes of The Gonzo Papers, though they be decades out of date). I will likely start in on Paul Theroux's Ghost Train to the Eastern Star, which I mentioned previously, when I return from South Gyeongsang Province.

That's if I finish the million or so make-up quizzes I must give some of my students, finish writing and printing my final exams, and (simply put) survive the rest of this semester. I also have to send a package off home with all the goodies from Korea and China. And a Christmas card for my grandparents. Yes, I'm doing Christmas cards this year. Seems like the thing to do. No excuse not to with them being just 400 won at my campus store (and in English).

And to leave you with a piece of good news...Insadong is still there. They haven't demolished it yet. Here's hoping they don't. 

Wednesday, October 23, 2013

cocktail review no. 74 - Greyhound

If you don't like grapefruit, get the heck away from this page, pronto. They might as well have named this cocktail "a screwdriver with grapefruit juice." That's what it amounts to.

  • 2 ounces vodka
  • 4 ounces grapefruit juice

Pour the ingredients into a highball glass half-filled with ice cubes. Stir and serve.

That's it. That's all there is to it. I have no idea who decided that this was a better alternative to the screwdriver, but that's not how I see it. In my opinion, this highball's good for preventing scurvy and not much else. All you can taste is the juice. If you see fit to add more vodka, then you're just tasting vodka and grapefruit juice. You'd be much better off adding some salt to the rim of the glass and having a salty dog. Or you could nut up and use a nip of tequila or rum or gin instead of vodka, I reckon. Some enterprising young fool has probably already concocted those versions of the drink and given them trite names and is busy disseminating them on the Internet, waiting for you to find and sample them. Go to it!

And for today's image, here's a picture of Margaret Gorman's greyhound, "Long Goodie." And Margaret Gorman. And Margaret Gorman's calves.


You're welcome.

Thursday, October 10, 2013

cocktail review no. 72 - Gin Rickey

Okay, let's step away from vodka for a moment. I'll use the last of that godawful cheap bottle from Bucheon in my special penne-with-tomato-and-vodka sauce later this week. Then it'll be gone and I'll just have the lovely, quality Parliament-brand vodka that I got in the Russian quarter near Dongdaemun. I have nearly a full bottle of Gordon's, so it's time for some gin recipes.

The rickey was wildly popular back in the day, you know. It was invented in the 1880s, reached the height of its popularity just after the turn of the century, and remained prevalent enough into the 1920s that it was mentioned in several prominent works of literature, most notably The Great Gatsby. That means that F. Scott Fitzgerald knew about this drink, and likely drank a few. Awesomeness by association? Here you are.

But let's talk about the drink itself. Where'd the name "rickey" come from? And why are there so many variations?

Well, I'll tell you: drinks with names like "rickey," "flip," "crusta," and "sour" are actually written in code. "Rickey" is a codeword for a specific cocktail recipe, where the only variation is the spirit. The rest is just stock ingredients. There are gin rickeys, whiskey rickeys, rum rickeys, vodka rickeys, and bourbon rickeys.

In fact, the original rickey was made with bourbon: the Joe Rickey.

From Wikipedia:

In 1883, Colonel Joe Rickey was purported to have invented the "Joe Rickey," after a bartender at Shoomaker's in Washington, D.C. added a lime to his "mornin's morning," a daily dose of Bourbon with lump ice and Apollinaris sparkling mineral water. Some stories place the exact day as a Monday after Col. Joe Rickey celebrated his wager with a Philadelphian on the successful ascension of John G. Carlisle to Speaker of the House. Col. Joe Rickey was known as a "gentleman gambler" and placed many bets on the outcome of various political contests.
There you have it, ladies and gentlemen. Now, the gin rickey:

  • 2 ounces desired liquor (in this case, gin)
  • 5 ounces club soda (or mineral water, if you so desire)
  • 1 lime wedge

Pour the liquor and club soda into a highball glass almost filled with ice cubes. Stir well and garnish with the lime wedge.


A few quick things before I get to my review.

Firstly, don't mix up highball glasses and rocks glasses (also called lowball glasses or old fashioned glasses). Capisce?

Second, if you live in a benighted, uncivilized country like South Korea that hasn't the faintest clue what a lime is, then you can just do like me and squirt some lime juice into the drink and call it even.

My diagnosis:

My goodness, I thought gin-and-tonics were refreshing and summery! The gin rickey blows every light, fizzy highball I've ever had right out of the water. It's easily the most cool, frosty, smooth and stomach-settling cocktail I've ever had.The mineral water does wonders for indigestion, the gin gives your head that pleasant, warm, humming feeling, and the hint of lime rounds the whole effect out. If you need to cool off, cool down, kick back or chill out, this here's your drink. And it takes roughly ten seconds to make.

You're welcome.

Monday, October 7, 2013

Hongqiao Pearl Market

Wait, we're not done!

I mean Thursday, September 19 wasn't done. The sun had just about vanished in to the layers of perma-smog hovering 15 degrees above Beijing's western horizon. The sky, the streets, the buildings and our skins were all the same shade of diseased pink. Exhaust clogged our nostrils and weariness our veins. But there was one thing we had to do before we hopped the subway back to Chongwenmen Station and our hotel.

I am speaking, of course, of Hongqiao Pearl Market.


It's not just pearls, actually. The first floor's all souvenirs: kitschy stuff similar to Donghuamen Alley or Insadong-gil. The next few floors are all fake jewelry, mother-of-pearl and cubic zirconia. The real stuff's on the upper floors.

Unless you count this.

Miss H, Miss J and I didn't spare much thought for souvenirs as we stepped off the elevator on the 5th floor. We didn't spare much thought for pearls, either. But then we got to lookin' and, well, things just sort of happened.


The pearls—the real ones—were ridiculously cheap. I won't say much about what we got or what it cost, 'cause some of it's going to be early Christmas gifts. I will say, however, that Heather got all of her wedding jewelry—earrings, pendant, bracelet—for practically nil. The lady helping us (she went by the name "Mindy") ran a tight shop with a center island, shelves on both walls, and a small back room. At the workshop table, in plain sight, was a rather tight-lipped assistant, and (presumably) Mindy's little six-year-old daughter colored while listening to an audiobook in the center of the island. Charming scene, really.


We watched as the assistant threaded a pearl necklace and Mindy put together a bracelet for Miss J's big-wristed friend.



We had another one of those "sophisticated" moments. World travelers in the audience know what I'm talking about. They hit you when you're sitting on a beach in Thailand with a sweating zombie in your fist, or looking out over the green hills of Africa from your open-air bungalow and wondering what combination of taupe and khaki to wear on that day's safari. You feel cool and competent and contented and thoroughly pleased with yourself. You're a jet-setting, straight-shooting, street-smart globe-trotter and you know it. And it hits you, just smacks you in the face. That's the kind of moment I mean. The three of us shared one as we sat in the massive Hongqiao Pearl Market in Beijing and had some pieces done up for us. 

Mindy was very good to us. She cut us some sweet deals, attended to our every need, and made us as comfortable as possible. In all seriousness: if you're anywhere near Beijing and you feel the need for some freshwater pearls, look Mindy up. Fifth floor of the Hongqiao Pearl Market. Second shop on your left. Can't miss it.

There, now I've vaunted for the day. I feel better.

We made only one other stop on the way back to our hotel rooms: the convenience store on the first floor of the Novotel Xin Qiao, where we stocked up on snacks for THE GREAT WALL AT MUTIANYU the following morning. I think I blew something like
¥300 ($50) on this little lot. The stuff in the bag is bread (assorted buns and rolls) from the Sapporo Bakery next door to the hotel. And before you ask, yes, the whisky was absolutely necessary.


Stay tuned...