Saturday, November 30, 2013

home brewing in Korea

Here it is, the long-awaited home brewing post. You'll probably wish I'd included more pictures, but those pictures, when we remembered to actually pause and take them, were either full of screw-ups and mistakes or could give away our secrets. So I'll include one or two and you can use your imagination to fill in the rest, like you would with one of Hunter S. Thompson's columns. (I finally got around to reading The Great Shark Hunt: Gonzo Papers, Vol. 1, a compendium of Thompson's essays from the mid '50s to the late '70s. Solid gold.)

And so, to business.

Joseph (previously known as Mr. JA on this blog) is a fellow I work with at Sejong University. For anybody who's close to us, or just anyone who lives on this island of a peninsula, it won't be hard to figure out who he is. Brant (also called Mr. BP) is a little more tricky to pin down, but that's how he would like it. How we came together isn't important. It was a baseball game or a horse race or some other venial sin. There was lots of beer involved. The topic of conversation turned, as it so often does, to the outright shittiness of Korean beer and ways of remedying it. (Not Hite D Dry Finish, nor even the Queen's Ale, can rise above cloying mediocrity.)

Well, as the beers disappeared and the innings (or heats or whatever) wore on, the talk got crazy. We started thinking about home brewing ourselves. A year ago this would have been absurd. We'd've had to MacGyver a brewing kit together from whatever junk we could salvage from the foulest alleys and byways in Itaewon, and heaven knows what we would have used for sanitizing—a bucket of cheap off-brand Purell?


Fortunately, we no longer live in such a benighted state. Korean expats who feel the need to rustle up a better brand of brew now have hope: Seoul Homebrew, located just across from the Wolfhound on Bogwang-ro 59-gil in Itaewon. A harrowing trip down two flights of narrow stairs leads you to a tiny concrete-floored chamber, which looks for all the world like a garage with no door. Wooden shelves line the walls, displaying plastic hydrometers, hoses, siphons, rubber bungs, carboys, air locks and beer buckets. Tubs of grains and hops are stacked neatly against the walls, giving the room the aroma of a small-time feed store. Stark yellow lighting comes from bulbs inexplicably stuck on the end of faucets embedded in the walls. A grain grinder, an industrial sink, and a storeroom filled with white grain sacks completes the scene.

Joseph, Brant and I, having hashed out the basic kit we would need to start, betook ourselves to this mystical place and stocked up. At first, we bought a single kit, consisting of a beer bucket (spigot included), an air lock, a hydrometer, and a laser thermometer; this was kept at Joshua's residence over in Yangcheon-gu, southwest of the Han River. Since then, both Brant
—who lives in the Gangnam areaand I have acquired our own sets of buckets, hydrometers, measuring cups, air locks, grain bags, stock pots, and bottles. Especially bottles. We need at least 30 for each batch, and that takes a lot of drinking.

But I digress.

Let me take you through the process quickly so what I have to say next will make sense.

There are two ways we brew beer. The first uses malt extract. After thoroughly sanitizing our beer bucket, hydrometer, tools, pots, and spoons, we boil water. We dump in some dry or liquid malt extract, stir, cook the resultant mixture (known as wort) for an hour, add in some other kinds of malt extract at the thirty-minute mark if needs be, and then begin part two of the process.

The second species of home-brewed beer is partial mash brew. The process is similar to malt extract brews, only this time, real hops and/or grains are put into porous bags and steeped in the wort as it's cooked. This adds extra flavor and kick, though it does complicate things a bit. 


We then dump the hot wort into the fermenting vessel
—in our case, a beer bucket. We add a few more gallons of water to cool the wort down, pitch the yeast, add it to the bucket, fill up the air lock with sanitizer, stick it on the lid, put the lid on the bucket and let the whole shebang sit for anywhere from five days to two weeks.

After the fermentation period is over, we bottle. We add sugars to the fermenting brew. The yeast will eat the sugars and excrete gas, making the happy bubbles we like to see in our beer glasses. After the sugar's added, the bottling process is fairly straightforward. We fill up our sanitized bottles, cap them with a capping tool and set them in some dark, lukewarm place for another two weeks. After that, they're ready to drink (after being properly chilled, of course).  
 

Our first batch, done at Joseph's sunny, airy apartment in the Yangcheon District, turned out largely as expected: flat and tart. It was supposed to be a nut brown ale. We tried the same recipe again with the second batch; my bottles received carbonation when the requisite two weeks were over, 'cause I screwed all my caps down real tight. The brew was still unsatisfactory, however. Our third batch, intended to be a partial mash Irish red ale, was a failure
—or so we thought. We opened it up and our nostrils were assailed by a hair-curling bitterness. There was also quite a lot of sediment in the bottom of the bucket. Certain that the brew had somehow acquired a fatal bacterial infection, we dumped it. Sanitizing your equipment thoroughly is imperative. Otherwise, bacteria will elbow the yeast aside and devour the sugars, creating acid instead of alcohol and irrevocably ruining the brew.

But perhaps not as irrevocably as we thought. The guys at Seoul Homebrew later told us that we should have bottled anyway. Oftentimes a brew will smell bitter and be full of sediment but still be A-OK. Stung by the knowledge that we may have chucked a perfectly fine Irish red ale (and 
60,000 apiece) down the john, Joseph, Brant and I rolled up our sleeves. We pulled out all the stops for our next brew: a chocolate porter. That one has been bottled. This is the first time we've used glass bottles...things really feel legit now. Nine of those bottles are sitting on the lower level of my jerry-built kitchen shelving unit. They'll be ready to drink come Tuesday night.

On Friday evening, the boys came over to my place to inaugurate my own set of brewing supplies. It was the first time we'd ever brewed at my apartment. Miss H and I busted our humps to clean the place up and make it presentable (and open enough for three grown men to work). We just about managed it. The brewing process came off more smoothly than ever before, apart from a forgotten air lock left at Brant's apartment in Gangnam. This time around we brewed an IPA, somewhere between an extract and a partial mash. We used two different kinds of hops, as per the instructions. To add some holiday zest to the beer we also steeped some fresh-cut ginger in the wort for 20 minutes. It refused to cool down, preventing us from adding the yeast. So Brant and I stuck the bucket on a footstool in my bathroom and rigged up the shower head so that it would spray cold water on the bottom of the bucket. It worked like a charm. There are genuine wort coolers you can buy for your home brews, but who needs 'em? Just use your shower.

That weird red dot on the side is Brant taking a temperature reading with the laser thermometer.

The beer bucket is still sitting on that footstool. It's now under our desk. The sanitizer in the air lock is bubbling away contentedly as the fermentation process moves along. I check the temperature once every 12 hours or so. I'm trying not to be paranoid or obsessive or manic. I got the used hops out of the house as quickly as possible so the smell wouldn't upset Miss H, and thoroughly washed and put away all the supplies. I can't wait to taste it.

And that's how I got into home brewing in Korea. Yet another reason it's so good to be alive.

Feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions. 

Wednesday, November 27, 2013

thundersnow and other tales

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/62/Occludedfront.gif
from Wikimedia Commons

You deserve a full update, and you'll get it, but it's just past 7:30 a.m. and I'm still soaking
wet from my shower and I have to be out the door by 8:00 or the subways become too crowded to deal with and I'll be late for class. So here you go, bullet time once again:

  • We got the third snow of the year yesterday, a heavy, wet, sopping sort of snow that fell awkwardly out of the sky and went splat on the ground. The weird thing was that it rained first and then started snowing—accompanied by thunder. "Thundersnow" I thought to myself as I put on my old boots and traipsed out into that soggy mess to get my computer fixed. 
  • Yes, that's the second thing: my computer. The hard drive went belly up last Sunday night. I was just clicking around, minding my own business, adding a few thousand more words to my 35,000-word NaNoWriMo project, when BAM—shutdown. Blue Screen of Death. Fatal error. Crash dump. Restart. Lockup. Force shutdown. No bootable disk. Sigh. I took it to the only Toshiba service center I could find on Google Maps, located in the Gangnam Finance Center building near Yeoksam Station. Once again I felt the unique and exquisitely painful sense of guilt I always get when I'm soliciting some service in Korea without being able to speak Korean. In pidgin (and heartbreakingly apologetic) English, the man behind the counter told me that my hard drive was bad, that he would salvage as much data as he could, replace my hard drive with a new one (albeit a Korean one with an English language pack) and put Humpty-Dumpty all back together again...for 121,000 won. I didn't mind. I was willing to pay any price, as a lot of my notes and pictures—and Novel #4—are completely unsaved and non-backed-up. I guess I got away cheap. I might have lost everything.
  • HAPPY THANKSGIVING! Miss H and I are doing our usual thing: throwing a bunch of Thanksgiving-y ingredients into the Crock Pot and turning 'er on. We'll spend the evening nibbling on a delicious amalgam of Thanksgiving dinner, listening to music, sipping Russian champagne and plugging away at our newest jigsaw puzzle. 
  • Good Lord, how did finals come so quickly? I was just coasting along, riding my way through a leisurely November with the students, doing various writing projects, quizzes, and fun activities. Now, suddenly, there's barely two weeks left until finals. Five class-days left, and one of them will be taken up by a standardized writing assessment and the other will need to be set aside for review. YIPE!!
  • The day after Thanksgiving, the boys (Messrs. JA and BP) are coming over to brew up some more beer. This is the first time we've ever done it at my apartment. I have all the equipment freshly bought and laid by, and am rather excited now that this SNAFU with my computer has been resolved. I'm just going to be running around like a chicken with my head cut off on Friday afternoon after class, picking up my coat from the tailor's (frayed cuffs repaired), my laptop from Gangnam, and a few last-minute supplies from the E-Mart in Cheonho, across the river.
  • On Saturday, Miss B, our army doctor friend stationed up in Dongducheon, is coming down for a visit. Oh, and that's also the day that Miss H and I are heading over to Incheon to have our other Thanksgiving dinner at the Fog City Diner. I hope we can fit Miss B in there somewhere. It's hard for her to get weekend passes. 
  • And then the weekend after all this, Miss H and I are heading down south to Busan on the KTX (for the first time since spring) to see the gang and have an early Christmas party. Eek.
  • And I still haven't resolved my V.D.Q., either. No reservations made yet and no concrete decisions in the offing. Argh!

How'd this happen? Everything was going so calmly for a while, and then BOOM. Chaos! Help! SOS! Mayday! Make it stop! I wanna get off!

Friday, November 22, 2013

Noshember (No-Shave November)

I'm participating, in case you didn't know. I'm going to try and grow myself a full beard. Never done that before. I got pretty close last spring, when I was looking at the cherry blossoms in Jamsil:


Then I shaved most of that horrid thing off and cultivated a sort of Gordon Freeman-esque Van Dyke for the intervening summer and autumn:


When November rolled around, I put my razor to bed. In the past few weeks, I've sprouted a bit. You saw how scruffy I looked when I went to Namiseom:


But get this: I'm not going to shave when we reach December. I'm going to keep going through January and possibly February. I'm going to grow this baby out. It took me two months to achieve that Van Dyke; now I'm going to see what four months can do to my entire face.

Hopefully this:


Say whatever you like about Robert Redford, he can grow himself a beardly beard.

Jeremiah Johnson-style. Yeah. Now we're cooking with gas. That's what I'm aiming for. By the time I tromp back to Korea from Hokkaido, Australia, and New Zealand (latest addition to the itinerary), I wanna be sporting a full beard.

Wish me luck...

Monday, November 18, 2013

the Facebook parabola


We've just reached the peak of it.

I reckon I know when I'll be coming back into the fold: December 18.

I'm sitting here, sucking on a glass of Black Velvet (which I totally forgot I had until I did that post about how I see the world). There's a super-duper thunderstorm going on outside. It's only about 44 degrees and the rain is just pounding. This stuff must have started out as snow. Either way, it's bad news for all the homeless folks in Seoul right now. I hope they got to cover, especially the legless and armless ones. 'Tain't a fit night out for man nor beast.

With the idyllic evening in full swing, I figured, hell: why not give you guys a progress report?

I picked the above date for a couple of reasons which seemed pertinent at the time. Number One, it'll be the two-month mark. Exactly. Dead-on. Sixty days (more or less) without Facebook. Seems like a sound number. More than enough to break a habit, right? I can already tell the difference. There's a big change. I feel like my Internet use is healthier, I spend less time staring at screens, and I do more cool stuff outside the apartment now. I hardly miss my little blue friend anymore. My right hand has quit moving of its own volition. The only symptom that remains is that incessant urge to put my latest pithy platitude or ribald observation up in your news feeds. I might not resist that temptation, though. Folks I know on Facebook seem to enjoy them platitudes. I've actually gone so far as to make a list of witty Facebook statuses to put up retroactively when I get back on in a month.

Hmm...maybe I'm not as cured as I thought.

The second reason is that NaNoWriMo will be well over by mid-December. I want to make sure I finish that up (and have some time to keep going afterward).

Third: the fall semester will be done with. Final exams will be completed. I'll be in the midst of grading them, sure, but the daily madness of regular class will be past.

Fourth: I kind of need to be back on Facebook before I finish grading and go off to Australia and Hokkaido. Then I can put up all my lovely photos and make you saps jealous. There are some people I'm planning to rendezvous with while out on the road, too, and Facebook would greatly facilitate that process. I hate to admit it, but my little blue friend is good for something.

So there you go. Get set for my triumphant return, Facebook. I'm comin'. I hope to see you all at the reunion party.

Friday, November 15, 2013

how a Californian (like me) sees the world

WARNING: What follows is exceedingly general and perhaps a bit non-PC. I don't care, and neither should you. Au contraire, you should laud me for admitting my ignorance rather than disguising it. Consider this a list of what I don't know about the world (and hope to learn someday).

DISCLAIMER: You'll notice that I said a Californian like me. You can no more judge all Californians to be the same than you can judge all Dubliners or all Tokyoites to be the same. We're a mixed lot. But even among them, I am an outlier. I was born in Northern California, for one thing. I've lived in the capital, the Midwest, the American South, and the Great Plains, so I know a bit more about the rest of America than the average Californian does. My political views don't exactly match up with a lot of other Californians', either. I'm a white middle-class twenty-something, and proud of it.

Ready? Then let's begin:


THE REST OF AMERICA:

  • OREGON: Best known for portraying that forested planet in The Return of the Jedi. And being mispronounced by Midwesterners and foreigners alike.
  • WASHINGTON STATE: Coffee. Rain. Pine trees. Killer whales. Reggie Watts. Legal marijuana. Sententious living.
  • IDAHO: Potatoes.
  • MONTANA: Looks really good on a postcard.
  • NEVADA: Vegas, baby. And machine guns. The rest of it's desert. And Reno.
  • UTAH: Mormons! Who doesn't like Mormons? And saltwater?
  • ARIZONA: Simply marvelous gun laws. Cacti which are the envy of the civilized world. Gila monsters. Fatuous Nicolas Cage movies. Mountains that look like Indians.
  • NEW MEXICO: Are the rocks supposed to be red like that?
  • COLORADO: Best place to raise abducted children.
  • WYOMING: Fewer people than a single suburb of Los Angeles. Seriously, the antelopes outnumber the humans. Scary thought.
  • NORTH DAKOTA: I felt like a celebrity there.
  • SOUTH DAKOTA: Big stone heads. The Black Hills (yeah, baby). Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane.
  • NEBRASKA: What the guy who thought of the phrase "middle of nowhere" was thinking of.
  • KANSAS: You're not there anymore, Toto.
  • OKLAHOMA: Bombs. Musicals. The Dust Bowl. Tornadoes.
  • TEXAS: If it weren't for them, Mexico would have invaded long ago.
  • MINNESOTA: So, like, let's go to the lake, eh?
  • IOWA: The Minnesotans are right. The best thing coming out of Iowa is I-29.
  • MISSOURI: My dad went to college there. Considers himself more Missourian than Ohioan. They've got an arch. That's the limit of my knowledge.
  • ARKANSAS: Most direct route between Tennessee and Oklahoma.
  • LOUISIANA: Bayous, swamps, Cajun food, levies, Mardi Gras, and hurricanes. Especially hurricanes.
  • WISCONSIN: Cheese.
  • ILLINOIS: Abraham Lincoln.
  • INDIANA: No friggin' idea. Maybe basketball?
  • KENTUCKY: Is the grass really blue, or is that just a figure of speech?
  • TENNESSEE: Too many mullets for my taste.
  • MISSISSIPPI: Hard to spell.
  • ALABAMA: Probably has the most likeable/least unpleasant Southern accent, depending on where you stand on Southern accents.
  • GEORGIA: Good peaches.
  • FLORIDA: Can't think of it without thinking of the auto-tuning rapper. Thanks a bunch. Before Flo Rida was a thing, I associated Florida with Scarface, my grandmother's house with the orange trees in the backyard, the one billion percent humidity, and the white-sand beaches.
  • MICHIGAN: They make cars there, don't they? And awesome music?
  • OHIO: Hot in summer, rainy in spring, miserable in winter, the most beautiful place on the planet in autumn.
  • WEST VIRGINIA: Coal. The Civil War. Trout fishing. Caves. Chuck Yeager.
  • VIRGINIA: This may sound weird, but I can't help but think of Virginia in terms of the famous people who were born there: Ella Fitzgerald, George C. Scott, Sam Houston, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark (yes, that Lewis & Clark), Patrick Henry, Robert E. Lee, Tom Wolfe, Booker T. Washington, Bill "Bojangles" Robinson, and, like, twenty U.S. presidents. 
  • NORTH/SOUTH CAROLINA: What's the difference? 
  • WASHINGTON, D.C.: Crazy homeless people in the streets, crazy people in the government.
  • MARYLAND: You need to put on some weight, you're too skinny.
  • DELAWARE: Sounds like a seldom-used word you'd find in a dictionary.
  • NEW JERSEY: Just as all myths have some basis in fact, the moniker "Armpit of America" must on some level be well-deserved. 
  • CONNECTICUT: Pretty. And filthy rich.
  • PENNSYLVANIA: The birthplace of liberty and independence. Looks nice in autumn, too.
  • NEW YORK: California's biggest competitor in terms of culture and coolness. They've got some pretty country, too; and heck, they even have their own version of the San Andreas Fault. We'll get you yet, you buggers.
  • RHODE ISLAND: Too small for my Californian mind to encapsulate.
  • MASSACHUSETTS: Baseball. Football. Clam chowder. Cod. Moby-Dick. Cheers (the TV show).
  • NEW HAMPSHIRE: The last stop before Maine.
  • VERMONT: The second-to-last stop before Maine.
  • MAINE: The last stop before New Brunswick. Also, Stephen King is from there; I do know that much. A lot of his books are set around those parts.
  • ALASKA: I know as much as everyone else does. Grizzly bears, gold, the Inuit, glaciers, the tallest mountain in North America, savage cold, bush pilots, hunting, cruises, trains, oil, fishing, formerly Russian, real men and real women. Oh, and I'd give my right arm and two or three toes to live there.
  • HAWAII: Palm trees. White-sand beaches. Turquoise water. Tropical fish. Sunshine. Ukeleles, luaus and leis. Volcanoes. Surfing. Pearl Harbor. The U.S.S. Arizona. Paradise on Earth. California's biggest competitor in terms of fun in the sun and water sports. Not bad if we can take on New York and Hawaii and still compete, eh?

THE REST OF THE WORLD:

  • MEXICO: Lovely beaches, great food, incredible culture, marvelous natural beauty, and good booze...but a corrupt government and a few too many all-powerful drug cartels. Oh wait, that's California.
  • CANADA: A dichotomy. On the one hand: nigh-socialism, a Governor General, and a certain amount of cultural snobbery (though that might just be the folks from Toronto). On the other hand: maple syrup, the Yukon, Nova Scotia, the Northwest Territories, British Columbia, Alberta, the Canadian Rockies, ice hockey, Shania Twain, William Shatner, Dan Aykroyd, Kim Cattrall, Stana Katic, Nathan Fillion (whom I hear is from Edmonton), Rick Moranis, Leslie Nielsen, Donald Sutherland, Alexander Graham Bell, Elijah McCoy (the real McCoy), James Howlett (better known as Wolverine), Anne Shirley (a.k.a. Anne of Green Gables), Chris Hadfield (the astronaut), Rush, Barenaked Ladies, Great Big Sea, dinosaurs, Black Velvet whisky, the Devil's Brigade, lentils, Swedish Fish, and some of the friendliest, politest people on the face of the Earth.
  • BRAZIL: Great barbecue, oddly-named mountains, and the best jungles and parties (and jungle parties) anywhere.
  • BOLIVIA: Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid got zonked down there, didn't they?
  • URUGUAY: It's all about the tango.
  • KENYA: I know Tanzania, Mozambique, and some of the other countries have amazing biodiversity, natural beauty and safaris, but whenever I think "East Africa," my mind just leaps to Kenya. Craters, rhinoceroses, the Serengeti, poaching problems, and now some election brouhaha. And a spectacular John Wayne movie.
  • SOUTH AFRICA: Let's move past the bit with the apartheid and get into Sharlto Copley, J.R.R. Tolkien, Basil Rathbone, Manfred Mann, Candice Swanepoel, and that sweet movie Zulu with Michael Caine. Just please don't mention Dave Mathews. We don't mention Dave Mathews on this blog.  
  • LESOTHO: See RHODE ISLAND above.
  • EGYPT: Revolutions. Pyramids. Rivers. Desert. Camels. Political turmoil. And they have their own version of The Daily Show.
  • MOROCCO: I only know where it is 'cause I watch Bogart films. 
  • CROATIA: It gave the world Serious Sam, so it can't be all bad, can it?
  • RUSSIA: I was born five years before the Berlin Wall fell, but I'd venture to guess that my generation's the first one that doesn't think "Commie bastards" whenever we hear the word "Russia." That doesn't mean I trust Putin or the KGB, but I sure would like to visit the country, ride their trains, drink their vodka, walk over their bridges, and so forth. Oh, and see St. Petersburg in the wintertime.
  • FRANCE: The other place an aspiring artist or writer might go besides California.
  • ICELAND: All of the wintry fun of Canada or Alaska with none of the urban sprawl.  
  • ENGLAND: Sorry, did I say Canada was guilty of cultural snobbery?! Though that could just be Londoners. Seriously, some of my best friends are from England. I wouldn't mind retiring to Newcastle someday, having fish and chips down by the quayside, a pint in the Turk's Head, then a walk 'round the priory and a pipe-smoke on the point. Geordies rock.
  • SCOTLAND: It gave us Scotch whisky, haggis, Robert Burns, Ian Anderson, and some of the world's finest and hardiest soldiers. I think a good many wars would have been lost without a few good Scotsmen.
  • IRELAND: The setting of another rather good John Wayne movie. If you don't think about the Troubles, you can get lost in the whiskey, the beer, the corned beef and cabbage, the stew, the River Liffey, James Joyce and the wild Irish countryside. Gotta love Chloë Agnew and Liam Neeson, too.
  • GERMANY: Efficiency. And cake. And philosophy. And awe-inspiring classical music.
  • SPAIN: Sunshine. And beautiful horses. Architecture to die for. Paella. Soccer. Bulls, and a lot of sports that shouldn't be combined with bulls. And tomato-chucking. 
  • SWITZERLAND: Americans voted it the best place to go if you're trying to escape from a German prison camp. I've heard they make pretty good watches and toys, too. 
  • INDIA: Outsourcing. Overpopulation. Sacred cows. Fascinating religions. Fantastic architecture. Pollution. Garbage in the streets. People pooping in public. The Ganges River, which I wouldn't dunk my worst enemy in.
  • VIETNAM: The site of a rather nasty and unconventional war. Now home to gorgeous waterfalls, delectable cuisine, a generation of suspiciously blond-haired Vietnamese, and tons of unexploded ordnance.
  • CHINA: Big. Really big. Filled with people. Controlled by a Communist government. Mao's noggin is everywhere. Still, even though fat guys go topless in public and toddlers poop in the streets, the trains run on time and the countryside is undeniably gorgeous.
  • JAPAN: My knowledge beforehand was mostly limited to World War II, anime and manga. Now I see the country through the Korean lens, and that colors my perception a bit. It's definitely one of Asia's bright stars, a broad, clean, polite and user-friendly country. But its foreign-relations record is a black mark in its ledger.
  • SOUTH KOREA: Before I came to live here, I knew the name of the capital and that the country got snow in winter. That's it. Now I know that, despite the bali bali culture that grinds students and salarymen into the ground, Korea has elevated itself from a smoking crater to one of the most prosperous, bright, advanced and innovative nations on the planet. The people, though bound by millennia of tradition and rigid societal and behavioral mores, are some of the most friendly and unconditionally kind folks I've ever encountered.
  • NORTH KOREA: If you're ever in need of a good laugh, just look up some of their propaganda.
  • AUSTRALIA: Deserts, mountains, jungles, forests, beaches, great music, good actors, some fantastic sports (and sports players), architectural wonders, storied history, a charming accent and some of the weirdest animals to be found.
  • NEW ZEALAND: Like some weird mix of England, Iceland, and Hawaii. But it did give us Peter Jackson, Lucy Lawless, Karl Urban and Bruce Spence, and some lovely glaciers.
  • ANTARCTICA:  Snow. Ice. More snow. More ice. Mountains. Volcanoes. Rocks. More snow. More ice. Frigid seas. Storms. Penguins. Blubber. Jules Verne, H.P. Lovecraft, Edgar Allan Poe, and every other adventure or horror writer who ever needed a remote, bleak, barren, ice-blasted place to set a secret base or an eldritch abomination.

Thursday, November 14, 2013

Gapyeong and Namiseom


Yesterday, my usual day off, I was up early and thought the weather too nice to spend inside. So I went forth to Cheongnyangni Station and caught the ITX for Gapyeong. It's a small city on the Bukhan (North Han) River in eastern Gyeonggi-do, right on the border with Gangwon-do and not far from Chuncheon.

The main tourist attractions in Gapyeong aren't in Gapyeong at all. They're in the middle of the river: Jaraseom and Namiseom, two tiny islands just a few hundred meters upstream. My target was Namiseom. I got off the ITX at Gapyeong Station, took a five-minute, minimum-fare taxi ride to the wharf, and stepped out into the autumn chill.

As I threaded my way through the bus parking lot and the crowds of chattering middle-aged ajummas and ajusshis (immaculate in their hiking gear and backpacks), I heard a hissing, rasping sound from overhead. I looked up. High above me, two hooting people in harness were sliding down a zip-line from a tall tower to Namiseom Island.


I was delighted. I knew I had to try this novel way of traversing the Bukhan; a humdrum ferry ride wouldn't suffice. I wanted to zip-line in like a ninja or a U.S. Marine.

After stumping up ₩38,000 (and stepping on a scale, to my shame), I and seven other would-be ninjas crammed ourselves onto a creaky elevator and found ourselves on a wobbly platform 80 meters above the wharf.



My zipping partner and I climbed into our chairs and placed our knees against the departure gate while the attendants gave us a safety briefing and strapped us in. Then, with a "three, two, one" (in English) we were off. I stuck my legs straight out as ordered. My considerably greater weight caused me to gain speed and outdistance my partner. I hissed down the 940-meter cable, whistling one of the triumphal numbers from the movie Dumbo, my hair flying off my brow and the greenish-brown river water gurgling by hundreds of feet below. After a spring-loaded halt at the bottom, I detached myself, snapped the only picture I could of the run, and entered Namiseom proper.


You can call it "Nami Island" if you're confused. "Seom" is, I take it, the Korean word for a smallish island. The big ones are just called "do" (Jeju-do, Ganghwa-do, Geoje-do)...but this is the same suffix used for provinces as well, causing confusion. "Nami" comes from the name of a general who is buried on the island. His story is...well, reprinted here for your convenience (click to embiggen).


I didn't know this at the time I toured the island, but apparently—and only half-jokingly—it considers itself a micronation. There were signs everywhere promoting the "Naminara Republic." I didn't buy a ticket at the wharf, I bought a "tourist visa" (for ₩8,000). There were flag-draped "embassies" everywhere on the island; it has its own minister of culture, foreign secretary, currency (though Korean bills are accepted), passport, and postage stamps; and, if Wikipedia is to be believed, the tiny island has sent emissaries to foreign countries. The island is a literal stone's throw from Gapyeong in Gyeonggi Province, but technically belongs to Chuncheon...so hey, I guess I can say I've finally been to Gangwon.

It's tiny. Namiseom is only 430,000 square meters in area and about 4 kilometers in diameter. (To give you some perspective, the New South China Mall in Dongguan has 430,000 square meters of floor area; most of it unused, sadly.) But the miniscule dot of land in the middle of the Bukhan is jam-packed with museums, art galleries, cafés, restaurants (even one that served Peking duck), scenic pathways, trails, open fields, picnic areas, open-air stages, ateliers, bungalows, gardens, ponds, even a friggin' ostrich paddock.

Here, take a look through my eyes (and camera lens):


The tomb of Nami, the boy general.




 

The east side of the island. That's Gangwon Province over there. Pretty, huh?







World-famous Nami sausage.


Your not-so-humble correspondent.

...scribbled by an Iranian poet.


The Metasequoia Path.


The Gingko Path.

The carpeting of the Gingko Path.

If I've read that sign on the left there correctly, this odd wigwam-like structures were once used for fermenting kimchi. Not sure how that works. Kimchi is usually stuck in a pot and buried for months while it ferments. These look more like smokehouses. Mmm...smoked kimchi. There's a vivid thought.


No idea.



Outdoor library (?) by one of the for-rent bungalows.






The west (Gyeonggi-do) side.




The ferry landing.


Some other zip-line ninjas came whirring overhead as the ferry crossed the river.