Friday, January 31, 2014

Hokkaido itinerary



I'm starting this post at 12:50 a.m. on what is technically a Saturday morning. My flight to Tokyo leaves early on Sunday afternoon. Before that, though, I need to fill you in on my itinerary. So here 'tis:

Sunday, February 2

  •    depart Incheon Airport at 1:20 p.m.
  • arrive Narita Airport at 3:30 p.m.
  • take the Skyliner to Ueno Station, then ride down the Ginza Line to Kanda
  • leave the station and head a few meters south to Capsule Value Kanda
  • eat some dinner and read that Tokyo chapter in Ghost Train to the Eastern Star

Monday, February 3

  •    at 7:00 a.m., head to Tokyo Station and activate my Japan Rail Pass
  • hop the JR Tohoku Shinkansen for Shin-Aomori (3.5 hours)
  • transfer to the JR Hakucho limited express to Hakodate (2 hours)
  • transfer to the JR Hokuto limited express to Sapporo (3.5 hours) 
  • don't forget to read all the relevant chapters of Ghost Train as you do this
  •   walk a block west and six blocks north from Sapporo Station 
  • find the Sapporo Clark Hotel (check in 3 PM, check out 10 AM)

Tuesday, February 4

  •    wake up, get breakfast
  • head to Sapporo Station and catch the express to Asahikawa
  • take bus 41, 42 or 47 from the station to Asahikawa Zoo (40 minutes, 400 yen) 
  • come back and get some Asahikawa ramen near the station
  • catch the train back to Sapporo

Wednesday, February 5

  •    wake up, get breakfast
  • take in the Sapporo Snow Festival in Odori Park
  • go up the Sapporo TV Tower and take some pics
  • walk south a block to Sapporo Tram (Nishi 8 Chome Station)
  • ride nine stops to Ropeway Iriguchi Station and then west to the Sanroku cable car station
  • take the cable car up to Mt. Moiwa
  • come back down and go back to Ropeway Iriguchi Station; ride 13 stops to Susukino
  • get some eats and drinks; take in the Snow Festival some more
  • walk back to Odori Park and get some shots of the Sapporo TV Tower at night
  • hit the sack

Thursday, February 6

  •    check out of the Sapporo Clark Hotel at five o'clock or so
  • head to Sapporo Station and catch the 6:00 AM limited express
  • do the whole trip again in reverse, except ask for Hakata at Shin-Aomori
  • arrive in Hakata at 12:00 AM...

Friday, February 7

  •    find something to do with yourself for a few hours...perhaps an izakaya
  • catch Bus 11, 19 or 50 to Hakata Ferry Terminal
  • check in at the Camellia Line desk at 11:00 AM
  • ferry departs at 12:30 PM; arrives in Busan at 6:00 PM

And there you have it. I'll arrive in Busan, tired and hungry perhaps, but ready for Adam's going-away party. Then it'll be the KTX back up to Seoul on Sunday, February 9. Then it'll be barely two weeks until the staff meeting at Sejong University, and then the new semester begins in March.

Wow.

What a jolly life I've got. 

Wednesday, January 29, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 30: get a straight razor shave

This post is pulling double-duty. It will simultaneously be the final 30 Days to a Better Man post, and also my last beardly update (for obvious reasons).


The first thing you should know is that the full beard I've been growing for five months is already gone. I shaved it off on Day 20 or Day 21, or something. Maybe Day 22, I'm not sure. Here's what it looked like the night before:


 


I shaved it off because (a) I didn't like the way my sideburns get all swirly when they grow out, and (b) I wanted my barber to give me a shave, not clear-cut a forest. Thought I'd help him out a little and revel in being clean and smooth for a few extra days. Then I'd go in on Day 30 and have the gentleman shave off the pathetic stubble I'd managed to grow in one week, and nobody would be the wiser. 

But here's the problem. I mentioned before that I shouldn't have done this challenge in winter. That goes double in Korea. Today begins the four-day Korean holiday of Seolnar (Chinese New Year, essentially, but for Pete's sake don't call it that here). Everybody and their mother has closed up shop and gone home for the holidays. I was at the grocery store last night and it was a madhouse, everyone buying last-minute gift packs for relatives and stocking up on supplies for the four-day dry spell. The Cheonho Bridge was backed up with traffic, choked with frantic motorists trying to get on the Gyeongbu Expressway and head south to the provinces.

There are two unpleasant and unforeseen consequences to this holiday that I didn't see coming:

Number One, I have failed today's challenge, because the barber and his wife shut their doors and went haring off for Gyeongsang Province or who-knows-where. Oh well. I can at least say that I have had a straight razor shave before. My old barber down on Geoje Island gave me one once.

Number Two, my winter coat is still at the dry cleaner's. I forgot to pick it up yesterday before everything closed. I leave for Hokkaido on Sunday. I'm going to have to make do with a crap-ton of layers and thermal underwear, I guess. Whoops.

So...that's it. 


The Art of Manliness's 30 Days to a Better Man Challenge...finished. Thirty days of hurdles, tasks and challenges, completed.

Am I a better man? I think so. I'm glad I took this challenge. It highlighted all of the areas in which I was deficient (clutter, finances, budgets, posture, manual skills, volunteering, and oh dear lord, physical fitness). But it also showed me all the things I was doing right (love letters, debt reduction, testosterone, dream-chasing, journal-keeping, reading, socializing, and adventurousness). Thanks to this challenge, my shoes are shined, my résumé is up to date, I've connected with old friends, found a mentor, reaffirmed my commitment to my dreams and my loved ones, and have tangible financial and fitness goals.

Nothing I couldn't have accomplished on my own, maybe; but it sure was nice to accomplish it all in a single month and look back on it with pride.

The only thing I didn't do right (besides getting a shave) was that dang Kipling poem. I shall make it my business to memorize it on the train through Japan. 


Tune in tomorrow for my itemized itinerary. A better man, signing off. 

Tuesday, January 28, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 29: conquer a fear


I thought long and hard about what I'd do to meet this challenge. I mean, there's not much that frightens me. In desperation I compiled a list of fears to help narrow the field, and I discovered to my dismay that it was narrow enough to begin with. 

Here are all the things in this world that frighten me:

  • Solifugae (or sun spiders, as my family calls 'em)
  • stalling or spinning a small airplane
  • murky water
  • Raiders fans
  • tuberculosis
  • senility
  • progressives
  • some schmuck plagiarizing my unborn novel
  • starting a novel
  • finishing a novel
  • not finishing a novel
  • having someone read my novel
  • having no one read my novel
  • submitting a novel to a literary agent
  • submitting a novel to a publisher
  • submitting a novel to an editor
  • querying literary agents
  • being turned down by literary agents
  • being accepted by literary agents
  • having my novel rejected 
  • having my novel published

Wow, that turned into a longer list than I thought. Okay then. [cough]

You can easily see the pattern, however. Most of those fears are location-specific. I can't conquer my fear of sun spiders over here in Korea, nor can I stall an airplane and face my fear of falling out of the sky. But maybe those aren't my highest priority. As you can see from the list, most of my fears revolve around writing. Some of them I have already conquered and beaten back; they're still floating around in my soul, but they've been hamstrung and crippled. They're harmless. Some, on the other hand...

My mother once told me that I might be afraid of success. At the time, I had no clue what she was talking about. Afraid of success? What did that even mean? Success is a good thing. It means you've won. Victory is yours. You've hurdled all the obstacles, mowed down the competition, beaten the odds. You've paid your dues and now you're finally being recognized for your hard work. How could that be frightening? 

Now I see what she means. Novel #1 was finished in late 2011 and is only now, in early 2014, ready for publication. I think there may be a reason for that. I was just too chicken to edit and fix it and send it off to someone. I just kept making change after edit after rewrite, spinning my wheels and chasing my tail. On a subconscious level, the thought of some stranger I'd never met sitting in a remote office and gazing down at my poor, puny manuscript with objective, merciless, scrutinizing eyes just made me shrivel up. The looming specter of the publication process — criticism, revision, endless rewrites, discussions of intent and purpose and characterization and prose and style — or worse, rejection — was like a hooded cobra rearing its ugly head at me, and it put the same look on my face that poor ol' Indy has in that photo at the top of this post.

Well, no more. Time to shove a torch in that ugly viper's face. Time to get that monkey off my back. Time to take the bull by the horns and hitch my wagon to a star and all them other syrupy metaphors. It is time, in other words, to chase down my lifelong dream.

So today, I am querying literary agents. I've spent the last nine days painstakingly editing and proofreading Novel #1, making sure that it's polished and ready for an agent's (and editor's) remorseless gaze. As of 1:14 a.m. this morning, it's finished. I trimmed the fat: 2,000 words and seven pages expunged. I tightened the prose. I removed every single discrepancy and inconsistency. I beefed up dialogue, removed unnecessary description, rounded out characters and fleshed out the story. It's ready. It's finally, finally ready.

Now I just need to conquer that fear of success. Off them e-mail queries go, then. I'll let you know how it all turns out.

Start the final countdown for Day 30. 

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 28: write a love letter

...for what man would be complete without the love of his life standing behind him and telling him not to do all the stupid stuff he'd otherwise do?

I really like the way The Art of Manliness says it should be done, too. The formula hits all the high notes. Not that I didn't know how to write love letters already, mind you. I had tons of practice in my youth. And I am a rather literary-minded fellow, and can wax poetic at the drop of a hat. But I'm not against taking suggestions. I followed the basic outline AoM suggested, penned a two-page letter, put it in an envelope marked My precious angel, laid it on Miss H's pillow, and when she came home...

...well, let's just say I'm her favorite guy at the moment. And that, my friends, is worth kingdoms.

I'm just ashamed that I haven't written her a love letter (or even a note) in over a month. Maybe I should make this a monthly or even weekly habit. She deserves it. She's worth it.

Postie out. 

Sunday, January 26, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 27: start a book

Silly me. When I first read the title of today's challenge, I thought it meant "start writing a book." For two weeks I was all in a sweat to finish Novel #2 so I could start on Novel #4. (Novel #3 is half-written, but there ain't no way it would have been finished it in time.) I guess that means I'm a writer after all. It came as a shock when I actually clicked over to the AoM article and saw the truth: I just have to start reading a book.

All too easy!

I'm actually in the middle of three books right now. The first is Paul Theroux's Ghost Train to the Eastern Star. Published in 2006, the book recounts the author's retracing of his epic train journey through Asia 33 years prior. I'm frantically trying to get done with the chapters about Vietnam so I can read about Theroux's train trip through Japan while I'm taking a train trip through Japan. This is Theroux's modus operandi, in fact. He buys books about the country he's in and reads them on the train. Sounds like a blast.

I'm still working my way through The Great Shark Hunt: Gonzo Papers, Vol. 1. These are some of Hunter S. Thompson's most notorious and infamous stories, concerning the world-shaking events he covered in the sixties and seventies, articles he published in Rolling Stone and elsewhere: the killing of Rubén Salazar, Super Bowl VIII, the decadence of the Kentucky Derby, and others. Some of these events laid the groundwork for Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas. (The book was inspired by two trips Thompson made to Las Vegas with Chicano lawyer Oscar Zeta Acosta so they could talk privately about the Salazar case.) It's fascinating reading. The sixties and seventies are vivid and colorful — particularly through Thompson's chemical-laden vision — and the historical events which took place are still relevant today.


...but not that relevant. I'm honestly finding it difficult to get into the stories on a personal level. You had to be there, I imagine. "There is no distance on this earth as far away as yesterday," Robert Nathan said, and he was right. All this stuff went down over forty years ago now. Old news. I'll finish whatever story I'm reading and then lay the book aside.

Finally, I am slogging my way through Anna Karenina. I think I'm a few pages away from Part Three, but dang. This is a hefty book. And again, it's difficult to get into. One of my globe-trotting college buddies, whom I'll call Levi, has read Tolstoy extensively. He did War and Peace first. He called it a "590,000-word page-turner." The way he described it made it sound as though it was impossible to put down. He finished it in a ludicrously short time. Then he turned his attention to Anna Karenina. He, like me, could barely get through it. Compared to War and Peace, Levi said, Anna Karenina was little better than a soap opera.

I agree with that assessment. So far we've had Karenin and his philandering wife arguing about appearances, and the adulterous Vronsky losing a horse-race. Oh, and Kitty being neurotic. Nothing even halfway dramatic has happened, unless you count [SPOILER ALERT] Vronsky impregnating Anna and Levin having a fight with his brother Constantin. (That's another thing: I'm still trying to figure out where the hell Levin fits into this story.)

I don't even have the satisfaction of suspense anymore, either, thanks to Miss H. Wrongly assuming that I already knew how the story ended, my lovely 
fiancée accidentally let slip that Anna [SPOILER ALERT] throws herself under a speeding train and dies at the end. Thanks a heap, lady. Way to ruin the ending. I'll finish the story regardless, before the spring semester is half over.  

But in the meantime, my reading list is backing up. To ameliorate that problem, and fulfill the requirements of today's challenge, I am starting a new book. Coincidentally, it's the first book that I've ever read on an e-reader. Miss H bought a Nook last year in anticipation of traveling, but found it wasn't as functional as she'd hoped, so she bequeathed it to me. I haven't touched it in six months. I can't stand e-readers. I'd much rather have a nice book in my hands and a funky bookmark to stick in it. I'm the ostentatious type who likes to show people all the fancy books on my shelf, or advertise to the world what I'm reading when I'm on sitting on a park bench or a subway train. Reading e-books is just staring at a screen, and goodness knows I do enough of that already. (The results of yesterday's Marine Corps fitness test are proof of that.)


The book I chose is The Terror by Dan Simmons. It's been a while since I read anything without an ulterior motive: research, or getting caught up with the classics, or taking someone else's suggestion. I almost never pick something out and read it because the concept tickled my fancy in some vague, inchoate, intangible way. But when I do, it's always a blast. That's why I chose this book. I'm not going to describe it to you; you can read all about it here. This post's too long as it is. And by now you know me well enough to figure out why I picked something like this.

The novel will be my constant companion on the journey through Japan. One real book and one electronic book should keep me entertained on the Shinkansen ride from Hokkaido to Fukuoka, and assuage my conscience besides.

Tomorrow: read up on Day 28.

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 26: take the Marine Corps fitness test


[pant, pant]

Well, I'm back.

[whew]

I took the test and the results are in. I now know precisely how out of shape I am. The only bright side to this humiliation is that I knew it was coming. I scrolled down through the list of challenges back in early January just to see what I was in for, and I saw this one and groaned. Physical fitness is, bar none, the area in which I am the least manly. I'm a flabby, wheezing blob. The last time I was in decent shape was when I was thirteen and in the High Desert Youth Soccer League.

I've always hated physical exertion. Some people get high on it, but I despise it. Even playing sports is barely tolerable for me. I am an imaginative fellow, an intellectual and bookish daydreamer, and to me there's nothing more monotonous (both mentally and physically) than putting my muscles, heart and lungs through their paces. I've heard a lot of runners and bicyclists claim that they get into "the zone," let their mind wander and get all calm and meditative and blabbity blabbity blah. Not me, no sir. To me it's just torture. Moreover, I'm an Epicurean and a hedonist. I love food and booze. But the better it tastes the more unhealthy it is. (Korean food is a notable exception to this, which is why I was able to drop 20 pounds in 2008-2009 by eating Korean and taking long walks by the Gohyeon River. I've since gained it all back.)


I know that this is no excuse for being out of shape, but I'm just explaining my position.

Okay. Ready for a good laugh? The maximum score on the Marine Corps fitness test is 300. To attain this score, you have to do at least 20 pull-ups (without a time limit), 100 crunches (in two minutes or less), and run three miles in 18 minutes.

My score was 70. 

A measly 70 points. 

Good grief.

Here were the final figures: 
  • pull-ups: nearly 1
  • crunches: 70 (guess where all of my points came from?)
  • 3-mile run: 47 minutes
I'd previously marked out a five-kilometer (3.1-mile) course near my apartment, along the riverside jogging paths in Hangang Park: Gwangnaru Station to Gangbyeon Station, then across the Jamsil Railway Bridge, then back upstream to the foot of the Gwangjin Bridge. I'd never run it before today, however, and that might have been my undoing. I'd been doing all my training at the gym, and those dang treadmills must have been lying to me, because according to their little digital readouts I can do five kilometers in 40 minutes flat. But for some reason it took me nearly 50 today. Maybe I didn't mark it out properly, I don't know.

The other mistake I made was to do the pull-ups (well, pull-up, singular) first. Humiliation is not the best feeling to have when you're starting a 3-mile run. Needless to say, I was feeling mighty low by the time I got back to the apartment. The crunches helped bolster my self-esteem a little bit, but then I went on The Art of Manliness's Day 26 page and discovered that I'd run so slowly and was so pathetic at pull-ups that I hadn't even scored a single point. My score came solely from my crunches, and that's it.

Whoof. Where's the whiskey?

Oh well. A real man shakes humiliation off and tries harder. I still intend to be able to run three miles in 18 minutes someday (and by "someday" I mean sometime this year). I'm going to have to try a lot harder though. It looked to me like I was running my head off this afternoon, but I didn't even score. Sheesh. Pathetic. In the shape I am now, I can do 0.6 kilometers nonstop (barely 0.37 miles).

Baby steps, baby steps.

Jog on back for Day 27.

Saturday, January 25, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 25: start a debt-reduction plan

Whoo-ee. Yesterday's playtime went very well indeed. I got my tax stuff done, though I had to wait around and sip a coffee frappé while the T.A. finished his lunch. He was quite thorough and efficient, having done tax forms for several other professors before me. It took him just 30 minutes to fill in and print my forms. I was out of there by half past one.

I hopped Line 7 to Line 9, and thence to Yeouido Island. I strolled down Uisadang Boulevard and through the long, echoing pedestrian tunnels under Yeouido Park. A young couple was learning to skateboard down there, their skin jaundiced from the glow of beat-up incandescent lights. Despite signs warning him not to, a scooter driver zipped by as I walked along, filling the air with exhaust fumes. Upon emerging back into the diffused daylight, I found myself across an intersection from the National Assembly. Standing near the guardhouse at the gates were four cold, bored-looking policemen in black-and-yellow uniforms. The grounds seemed dead and shriveled under the muted sky, the grass brown and the fountains bone-dry. The National Assembly building itself, however, was magnificent. Apparently it's the largest building of its kind in all of Asia. I made a mental note to book a tour there with Miss H at some point.

Then the real fun began. Hungered by my walk, I hurried back down the boulevard to a tiny little mandu shop I'd noticed earlier. I sat down at a narrow red table (with recessed steel trays for kimchi and pickled yellow radish) and ordered the ₩3,500 assortment. It was delicious, though the last two dumplings were so spicy that I had to gulp down some water. I retreated back into the subway and took the geumhaeng (express) train to the last stop, Sinnonhyeon (New Nonhyeon), just a block or three north of Gangnam Station. I entered the enormous brown Kyobo Building, delved into its basement bookstore, and purchased a copy of The Metamorphosis by Franz Kafka for 
₩6,900. With the book between my knuckles I jogged across the road to the Urban Hive, which Miss H and I have nicknamed "the Swiss Cheese Building," and Take Urban, the coffee shop on its first floor. I sat down with a cup of Darjeeling and read Kafka's whole story, soup to nuts. It was fascinating, moving, grotesque, poignant, unexpected. I don't know why I didn't read it sooner.

I had intended to walk a few blocks north to the old Nonhyeon Station on Line 7 and catch a train for Gwangnaru and a little izakaya (Japanese-style pub) I knew near my apartment, but I got a call from Brant — you know, the fellow I brew beer with. A buddy of his, Marcus (born in Texas but attending college in Cairo, Egypt), was in town and the two were bumming around together. I'd challenged them to a game of billiards the previous evening. Brant told me to meet him and Marcus at Gangnam Station at eight o'clock. To while away the intervening hours I went to an old nemesis of mine, WaBar, a "western-style ice bar" and sipped their infamous saeng maekju (draft beer) for 
₩4,000 a glass. To kill time I read Kafka's story "In the Penal Colony," which was even more disturbing and emotional than The Metamorphosis.

At 7:45 I wobbled down to Gangnam Station. Brant and Marcus showed up on time. We sipped Jack and Cokes for ₩6,000 apiece at a bar called Whiskey Weasel, jockeying for position amid a group of young foreign men and Korean girls having a language exchange. The three of us shot pool and eyed the sultry goings-on. Following my resounding victory, we adjourned to Woodstock, a nearby LP bar. We requested Red Hot Chili Peppers, The Who, Warren Zevon, Wolfmother, Led Zeppelin, George Thorogood, and many more. Bourbon, Scotch and at least four pitchers of beer were consumed. We went back to Whiskey Weasel and shot more pool, our aim now a great deal unsteadier. I vaguely remember getting into a cab at 2:30 in the morning and collapsing on my couch at three. Undoing the ramifications of this bender has been today's sole concern. 

Well, not my sole concern, truthfully. Today is Day 25.


I already have a debt-reduction plan. I fork over $114 every month to pay off my college loans, the total amount of which is now (thanks to years of hard work in South Korea) four figures and dropping fast. My first year at Sejong University was so remunerative that, a week ago, I paid off a whopping $1400 of my debt in one fell swoop just to expedite the process. For the sake of this challenge, I calculated that if I pay $500 a month into my loans, starting in February, I can be totally debt-free by this time next year.

...at least until I marry Miss H and take on all of her debt.

Whoopee. Welcome to married life, Postie.

Stump up for Day 26... 

Thursday, January 23, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 24: play!


All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy, right? Especially if Jack's a writer.

All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull b--

I should probably stop before you get freaked out.

Anyway, today's challenge is to play. Thirty minutes of pure, unadulterated fun time. Yes, I know that's not really specific. But that's the point. There are many different types of "play." You can do anything you want, as long as it isn't video games. I really like what the AoM article says. "Keep in mind that some of the best play involves novelty, curiosity, and most of all, exploration, whether of the limits of your body, new physical locations, or the corners of your mind." You should stretch a point and do something creative. B
uild a model, go bouldering, shoot pool, ride your bike, challenge your buddies to a pick-up game of basketball, bust out that jigsaw puzzle, go exploring, whatevs. You just have to make sure that you're doing it for no other reason than fun. The point of the activity is the activity itself. It's time to let go of all those manly responsibilities and have some fun. 

I kind of wish I'd done this challenge in summer. It's hard to get into the mood to play when it's cloudy, slushy, and drippy outside. I have a quick errand to run at Sejong University and then I'm a free man after lunch. I have this whole wide city to play in and I can't decide what to do. I really want to do something outside this jail cell of an apartment, I know that much. I had originally planned to hop a train down to Suwon and see Hwaseong Fortress, but it'd look so dreary in this weather.

Okay.

I have an idea.

I'll pick a section of Seoul I haven't properly explored yet and go explore it. Yeouido Island might be a likely place to start. It's a big island that sticks out from the southern shore of the Han River. "Island" is a liberal term; only a tiny, muddy, meter-wide strip of water separates it from the rest of the peninsula. I've been there a few times before; I really love the park this time of year, and the 63 Building is pricey but has one of the best views of Seoul. I've never taken the time to stroll around and see anything else, though, particularly the National Assembly. I won't go in for the guided tour (you must make reservations three days in advance), but I can at least see the façade, the 
visitor's center and the extensive lawns out front. It's been a while since I went exploring for exploring's sake. I'll find myself a little mom-and-pop shop afterward and snack on gimbap, ramyeon or bibimbap, and then sit in a coffee shop with a view of the river and read Paul Theroux's Ghost Train to the Eastern Star. Sounds like a nice play-day.

Play along for Day 25.

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 23: learn a manual skill

I heard back from the volunteer agency I wrote to on Day 20. Turns out they've shut their operation down for a few months due to "staff changes," whatever that means. They'll put me on the list and get back to me once they're up and running again. Doesn't bother me. This gives the weather time to get nicer.

Wipe that look off your faces, maggots. "Yes, I love winter, but I am not willing to take wounds for it, as I am for summer." John Holmes (slightly paraphrased).

Anyway, on to Day 23.


Manual skills are something I am severely deficient in. I was always the type of boy who drew or scribbled instead of building things (with the exception of Lego sets, of course). I'm rubbish with cars. I've helped my pop replace oil, brakes, shocks, and even entire engines, but left to my own devices the most I can do is change tires and check fluid levels. And I know zilch about carpentry, metalwork, wiring, plastering, bricklaying, tiling, or anything else construction entails. I can disassemble and clean guns and paint eaves like the dickens, and that's about it. I'm a whiz with jigsaw puzzles, but that's of little practical value.

So I set out to rectify these shortcomings. I chose to familiarize myself with basic home wiring. I've never so much as touched a length of copper wire in my life. I hovered in the background while our one-armed electrician upgraded our electrical system in California (with his assistant giving him a hand). Even in my twenties, I have a tendency to view electricity as some kind of benevolent spirit that inhabits the walls and breathes life into table lamps and computer screens.

I sat down and went through the entire course on doityourself.com. It was full of helpful hints, useful tips and even a little glossary of terms. Some of it I was already marginally familiar with—you have to know what amperes, circuits, and circuit breakers are if you fly airplanes—
but some of it was almost incomprehensible. (Roughing in? Knock out a tab? Pigtail the hot wires together?) I had to pause frequently to look up things like junction boxes and fuses, just to make sure I knew how they worked.

Regardless, I like to think that I know my home electrical system a little better now (even if the voltage levels are different in Korea). I know what the colors of the wires mean, at any rate. When I'm back in the States and my wife and three kids run to me and ask me to install a light switch or a ceiling fan, I feel as though I'll be able to do it (with judicious help from that website). I might even get brave and install track lighting along the driveway at some point. I feel like a better man already.

Keep scanning for Day 24.

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 22: improve your posture


I kind of cheated with this one. After I finished Day One's post, I clicked through the rest of them just to see what they were all about. Forethought never hurts, you know. As I was reading through today's article, a startling fact jumped out me: my gut could be partially due to my bad posture!

That was something I'd never suspected before. I should have realized it, of course. Just as women's innards are rearranged by a tight corset, men's guts are squished by their rib cages whenever they hunch over. Fancy that. I've been trying to ditch this gut for ages, and by slouching I was working against myself the whole time.

Well, no more. I've been subtly working on my posture all through the past three weeks of this challenge. I stand straight enough, but my sitting posture is atrocious. I've made a conscious effort to sit up straighter, or "sit at attention" as AoM explains. (And I've been making a heartier effort at the gym, too, for obvious reasons. Between that and sitting straighter, I'll have this beer gut licked in 2014, hell or high water.)

Today being the actual day of the challenge, I was more conscientious. I actually performed the tests which AoM recommends in the article. I did the "wall test" to see if my standing posture was good, and it was. The only bad habit I have while standing is to suck in my gut, which will probably give me hypertension at some point. 


Sitting was more challenging. My couch doesn't lend itself to leaving a "hollow" in the small of my back, and I often became tired. But I stuck to it. I'm going to keep at it when the spring semester begins and I'm at my desk for long periods. I didn't do the "string" test that the article suggests, because I have a feeling my gut would interfere with it. But I don't need no string to tell me to sit up straight.

Ouch. Ouch ouch ouch.

This sucks.

This might be the worst challenge yet.

Can't a man slouch if he wants to?!

Stand tall for Day 23...   

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 21: write your own eulogy


Read the article before you do anything else. It explains how today's challenge isn't really as morbid as it sounds. What better way to understand that your life is finite and that you need to get off your duff and live it than writing your own eulogy? Facing your mortality will give you greater cause to live each day with purpose. 

In fact, writing my own eulogy gave me almost too much perspective. Knowing that life is fleeting and temporary made me wonder about all those hours I've been spending at the gym. Surely I could be out in the fresh air or sampling the finest wines and foods instead of breathing recirculated air, grunting and sweating. One of the reasons I've never managed to stick with any exercise regimen is that I always get the creeping sense that I'm wasting my time. The two hours I spend lifting weights and jogging on a treadmill could be used in so many more constructive ways: writing short stories, planning novel plot lines, researching historical epochs, learning Korean, exploring Seoul, etc, etc. I always get the feeling that I'm using up an insane amount of my precious lifespan doing something that's of no material benefit. 

Not true, of course. Working out is healthy. And I don't mean to insinuate that I actually would use those extra two hours constructively if I stopped going to the gym. But hey, I never said my mind was logical. I just said that I found it hard to stick with exercise plans because my mind started working against me.

Anyway. Here's my eulogy: 

Andrew Post was a wanderer from the beginning. He was born in 1986 in Auburn, California, but didn't stay there very long. He called many places home during his youth: southern Ohio, rural Tennessee, urban Virginia, the California desert, the plains of Wyoming. As a small boy he kept his nose glued to the airplane windows, looking at the big world going by beneath him and vowing that he would see it all someday. 

It was this same intrepidity which drew him to North Dakota State University, far from his home in Southern California. (That, and the lack of an admission deadline.) He felt that a career in zoology was his ticket to travel and adventure. After a bad run-in with advanced chemistry, however, he switched his major to communication, graduating in 2007 with a degree in journalism and broadcasting and an English minor. If he couldn't study the big wide world of mountains, trees, animals and people, he figured he would write about it instead. 

A nationwide job market slump forced Andrew to seek his fortunes abroad. He spent four nonconsecutive years as an expatriate English teacher in South Korea, two as a professor at Sejong University in Seoul. During this time, he became an avid blogger, sold travel articles to online magazines and wrote several historical and science fiction novels. Despite his journalistic pursuits, it had always been Andrew's intention to be a writer. His debut novel Revival won him fame and fortune when it was published in 2016. He'd sent one of the first drafts to me a few months earlier. I remember critiquing it harshly and telling him flat-out that it was crap. "Thanks," he said. "Now I know I need to do better." And he did. He told me afterward that the greatest accomplishment of his life, besides finding a woman who was willing to reproduce with him, was winning the Nebula Award for Best Novel that same year. 

In August of 2013, Andrew proposed to his long-time girlfriend at Tokyo Disneyland. He would always say, "It was the smartest thing I ever did, asking that woman to marry me." The two wed upon their return from South Korea in 2015 and had three beautiful children, Zebulon, Aurora and Gilbert. Though Andrew was often far from home on one globetrotting adventure or another, he always made sure to be there for his children, for birthdays and Christmases, triumphs and tragedies. He raised his kids to be independent, forthright and principled people who pursued their dreams without fear or compunction. 

Anyone who met Andrew knew that his list of hobbies and interests was a long one. He was an energetic auto-didact and read whatever he could find about history, astronomy, technology, and the natural sciences. On the fiction front, he adored adventure tales, notably science fiction but occasionally dipping into fantasy and mainstream fiction as well. He loved aviation, becoming a pilot at the age of 24 and flying throughout his life. He took a great interest in classic and vintage cocktails, mixing and sampling as many as he could and even inventing a few of his own. The cocktail bar he ran out of his first apartment in South Korea was legendary among the expatriate community. Shooting was another hobby of his, and whenever he was able he'd get a group of friends together and head to the range. He was happiest after a long day of trapshooting, off-roading, flying, or hiking, sitting in a comfortable chair within view of a good sunset, a glass of Scotch in his hand and a lit pipe between his teeth. His greatest love, however, was travel. There were very few countries that Andrew didn't want to see, and he spent a lifetime traveling all over the world and writing about it in his journals. He sent me many postcards and pictures from the road. The best of these was the one I got in the winter of 2023. It was a photo of Andy standing in front of the statue of the Virgin Mary on San Cristóbal Hill in Santiago, Chile. He'd scrawled a message to me on the back: "This town is great! I might just retire here." In his lifetime he set foot on all seven continents and explored over sixty countries. He told me once that if there was a single place on his bucket list that he missed, he'd die a regretful man. I think he managed to avoid that unpleasant scenario. He and his wife retired to Santiago in 2046, just before Andy's 60th birthday. He opened a bar and spent the last two decades of his life plying thirsty Chileans and expatriates with delicious drinks and regaling them with tales of his life.

Andrew, or Andy as his friends called him, was a rare soul: a fellow who went against the grain, but didn't hold it against you if you didn't follow. He thrived in adversity, worked hard under pressure and always put a cheerful face on things. He could lighten any awkward situation with a lame but well-timed pun. He was intensely loyal to his friends and would never speak ill about one of them behind their backs. He did his level best at work and maintained a professional and industrious demeanor while on the job. His employers and friends alike could rely on him to go the extra mile. He always had an interesting tidbit to share about any given topic, and had away of explaining things that made them interesting and worthwhile. He would never pass a bum on the street without flipping him a quarter. He often failed to live up to his own standards, but he never quit trying.

I will miss Andy's intolerable puns. I'll miss his goofy grin. I'll miss his impeccable taste in movies, whiskey, and cigars. I'll miss flying with him over the Mojave Desert and the Alaskan wilderness. I'll miss his mouth-watering vegetarian lasagna. I'll miss his kindness, his optimism and his endless cheer. I'll miss the Santa Claus beard he grew in his old age, and the free gin and pipe tobacco he'd ply me with whenever I visited him in Chile. I'll miss the roaring adventures he wrote about in his novels, and the adventures the two of us had together. I'll miss the sight of him climbing, grinning, out of his trusty Jeep after a particularly challenging hill or patch of mud. But most of all I'll miss his imagination. Nothing was impossible for Andy; he dreamed big and he never lost sight of his goals. He'd always see the funny or wacky side to any situation. With his passing, the world has become a bit darker. But I know that we've all learned a little something from his novelist's mind, his punster's mouth and his go-getter style. Wherever he wanders now, I wish him all the best. 

Sunday, January 19, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 20: perform service

Two-thirds done!

Another caveat: you don't actually have go to out and perform the service on this day (unless, of course, the opportunity presents itself). But you should take time to at least schedule some volunteer work.

A soup kitchen in the Warsaw ghetto during World War II.
I selected Itaewon Global Village Center. They have several different volunteer activities that they do. You can pass out food to the elderly or infirm, or do the same for the poor little waifs at an orphanage, among other things. I'm curious about helping the poor while I'm here, as poverty is a taboo subject in Korea (thanks to Confucianism). The homeless and destitute are generally swept under the rug. But for the amputees panhandling in the subway station or the wild-haired bums scrounging through garbage, a foreigner might believe that there aren't any poor people in this country. And I've been wanting to volunteer at a Korean orphanage ever since I saw this.

So! I sent IGVC an application form today. I'll let you know when I get a reply from them. This is the moment when taking on a challenge like this really starts to pay off. I've always been lax with volunteering. I didn't do it enough, and I'm fairly certain it knocked me out of the running for several jobs. It left a black stain on my conscience, too. I haven't volunteered since the last balloon launch with NKP. (I'm actually in that video, by the way, at 14:10; the guy with aviator shades and the fedora, obviously.)

Be that as it may, it's high time I did something to help the South Koreans. This country's been good to me. I need to pay them back.

Stay loose for Day 21.

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 19: schedule a physical exam

I've been so wrapped up in this challenge that I've neglected to tell you about the other noteworthy happenings in my life. There've been a few. I still have to explain my Hokkaido itinerary. My beard's thickening up nicely. I may have a new line on finding the location of the army base where my grandpa was stationed during the Korean War. Most importantly, I've decided to take the bull by the horns and find a literary agent for Novel #1. I'm a third of the way into the final edit/proofread; when I finish I'll start sending query letters. "Exciting" simply does not describe it.

But I'll explain all that later. Let's get back to the subject of manliness.

I can't remember the last time I had a complete physical checkup. I think it was after I got back from Korea in 2009. That was almost five years ago, and according to The Art of Manliness, it's time for me to go back and get another one.

But there's a problem.

It's not that I don't trust Korean doctors. Far from it. They've helped me out a lot. They saved my life in September. I had tonsillitis and a 104-degree fever, and the capable folks at Asan Medical Center in Songpa-gu put me to rights.

But there are minute differences in the medical practices between East and West. Korean doctors believe some things that American practitioners don't, and vice-versa. There's also the language barrier to consider. Most Korean physicians are at least halfway fluent in English, but some of them have accents as thick as cold butter. I want to understand the diagnosis when it's given to me. Completely.

So I think, in spite of the interminable wait and the added cost (thanks, Obamacare), that I'll wait until I get home to the States to have a physical.

I'm still meeting the parameters of the challenge, never fear. Today's goal is to schedule a physical exam. That's precisely what I'm doing. I'm just scheduling it for March 2015. It's going down on my invisible calendar. [scribble] There. All done.

What I will do as soon as possible is schedule appointments with a dentist and an optometrist. I haven't had my teeth looked at or professionally cleaned in ages. And it's been a year since I got this latest pair of glasses, so I suspect it's time to get my subscription updated. I'm going to be staring at screens a lot this winter: editing manuscripts, typing up novels and short stories, reading other peoples' work (sorry, Olivia, I'm going to finish that dang story of yours if it kills me) and blogging about Japan. So I'd better make sure my spectacles are up to the challenge.

Pull up a stump for Day 20...  

Friday, January 17, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 18: find your N.U.T.s

That there may be no speculation, "N.U.T.s" means "Non-negotiable, Unalterable Terms."

They're related to your core values, which we discussed during Day 1 of this challenge. The example The Art of Manliness article gives is this: if one of your core values is fitness, then one of your N.U.T.s could be "I will work out six times a week, no matter what." As the article so adroitly states, "N.U.T.s are the things you’re committed to, the things that matter more than anything else: your kids, your career, your primary relationships, yourself, your purpose, your spiritual practice, your hobbies, your integrity, your morals and your psychological well-being."

Before we start, take a look at this picture, here:


That's Hiroo Onoda. He was in the news recently, but not because he has way too many Os in his name. The guy was a Japanese soldier in World War II, left behind and isolated on a Philippine island in 1945. He had been ordered by a superior to keep fighting. So he did. He refused to believe the war was over. He dismissed the newspaper and radio reports. Even when his own people dropped leaflets on him telling him to surrender, he thought they were Allied propaganda meant to demoralize him. He slept in a hole and lived off the land, waging a shadow war with the local Filipino population. He had some squad-mates with him in the beginning, but two of them surrendered in the 1950s and the other was killed in a skirmish with Filipino militia, I believe. Onoda finally capitulated in 1974, 29 years after the war ended. After a Japanese student found him in the jungles of Lubang Island near Luzon and sent his picture to some government bigwig, Onoda's former commanding officer (now a balding librarian) was flown in from Japan to personally order the steadfast soldier to stand down. Onoda handed over his sword and left the island. He then lived out the rest of his life as a peaceful citizen of his native land. He died yesterday at the age of 91.

Now, don't get me wrong. The Imperial Japanese Army doesn't have the cleanest rap sheet. Onoda may not have personally had anything to do with that, but he did kill some innocent Filipinos during those three decades as a holdout. I don't admire him for it.

What I admire him for is that unshakable sense of duty which led him to (literally) stick to his guns for 29 years, despite the whole world telling him to throw in the towel. Think about that for a second. Reach way down inside yourself. Is there anything you believe in so strongly that you'd be willing to give up 29 years of your life for it? Even then, do you truly think that you've got the determination and the stick-to-itiveness to do so? 


Onoda believed so hard in his duty as a soldier and a subject of the Emperor that he did just that. He put his money where his mouth was. He gave up thirty years of his life fighting a war he didn't know he'd already lost. In 1974, when he was discovered, Onoda's rifle was in perfect condition despite sitting in a jungle for three decades. He had stockpiles of ammunition and food which he stole from the locals. He was a literal one-man army, and he did it 'cause he felt he had to do it. Voices must have whispered to him a thousand times, a million times: stop, desist, stand down. He must have been tempted to listen to the news reports. To believe the rumors he'd heard. To turn himself in and go home. But he didn't. He never gave up. Something down deep in his soul, something made of furnace-forged steel, compelled him not to quit until his commanding officer told him otherwise.

If that isn't a N.U.T., I don't know what is. There's a reason Onoda's on this list of real-life Determinators.

So! Here are my N.U.T.s. You may think I spent a lot of time agonizing over these, but I didn't. Truth be told, I've already done this challenge. This was a separate AoM article before it was part of this 30-day challenge, and I saw it, and just for kicks I brainstormed and wrote some ideas down. I couldn't find the notebook I wrote them all down in, but I remember them pretty well. I've reproduced them here for you: 

1. I will not refrain from doing something just because my mind thinks it's scary.

2. I don't trust first impressions. I'll try anything twice.

3. I don't need to justify my choices or my actions to anyone but myself.

4. I see things through, but only if I decide that there's a good reason for doing so.


5. I say nothing about anyone behind their backs that I would not say to their faces. 

6. I accept jokes made at my expense with grace and good humor.

7. I never lie: I say what I think and I mean it.

8. I will never be satisfied with the man I am, and constantly strive to top myself. 

9. There is never a wrong time to learn. 

10. Skills can always use improvement. 

11. I waste minutes and hours, but not days: every day I write, move, live, and experience.

12. Everyone, no matter who they are, has something they can teach me.  

13. I judge movies, books, and albums by their covers, not people.

14. There is more to life than my life. 

15. I am aware of my bad habits and I combat them actively.

16. Humanity will remember me for something. 

17. I will leave this planet a better place than I found it. 

This is only the first draft. I'm going to refine these during the final weeks of January. Something should probably be thrown in there about my commitments to others: my job, my family, the love of my life, etc. But for starters, this is what we've got. What do you think, dear reader? Are these good-lookin' N.U.T.s? 

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 17: talk to three strangers

Why?

Why do it?

Why talk to that schmuck a few feet down the bar?

Six very good reasons. You expand your network. You meet new friends...and potential mates. You increase your social skills. You learn new things. And most importantly, you boost your confidence. If it's one thing all the manly men I know have, it's confidence. Confidence is one of my core values, but even if it wasn't, any one of those aforementioned things would be a fine reason to reach out to someone you don't know. As long as you're honest, genuine, and act interested, you can gain a wealth of information (and perhaps a good friend in the bargain). 


So I done it. I spoke to three strangers tonight during a date with Heather in Itaewon — the same date, actually, that I planned on Day 9.


The first person was the owner and proprietor of one of the foreign food markets. He and I had a short discussion about two things: Cheesy Ragù sauce and unflavored Ruffles. I asked if he had them in stock, and he explained that the Ragù is difficult to come by in Korea, that the Ruffles usually come in once every two weeks, and it's up in the air what flavors he'll get. At least, I think that's what he was implying. He's from Pakistan and he's a very busy man, so he speaks quickly and is sometimes difficult to understand. After bestowing these bits of comestible information upon me, he wandered away to hector a couple of his employees who weren't facing the stock assiduously enough.

The other two were a pair of foreigners on the Line 6 train heading east to Bonghwasan. I had spotted them earlier, smoking and standing outside the Paraguayan restaurant where Miss H and I had dinner. On the subway I overheard them speaking in accented English about the express line heading to Incheon Airport, so I up and asked them where they were catching it. Hongdae? Digital Complex?

Digital Complex, it turned out.

One of the men was a long-haired West African with dreadlocks and the other was a dark-complected and rather handsome southern Asian. He could have been Indian, Pakistani, or Bangladeshi for all I knew. They were indeed taking a flight out the next morning. The Asian fellow got off at Yaksu Station only a few seconds into the conversation, but Miss H and I engaged the African man for a few moments longer, until our inevitable departure at Cheonggu. He looked to be about our age. We never got his name. He was flying home to Sierra Leone to see his family, he said. It would be a 30-hour flight. He hadn't seen his family in three years, and was very much looking forward to being home and surrounded by familiar faces. I couldn't say I blamed him. I've been feeling the need — no, the compulsion — for something similar for a long while now. We wished him well on his journey, then leaped off the train and switched to Line 5 for the last leg home to Gwangnaru. If we'd stayed on the train a little longer 
— which I kinda wish we had — we'd probably have learned his name, and maybe even become friends with him.

Oh well. Ships that pass in the night, as they say. Let's not forget the salient fact, here.

I talked to a West African today.

Who have you talked to lately? 

Thursday, January 16, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 16: create a budget


This is something I've desperately needed to do. My finances have always been the weakest link in my life. I keep receipts, but they wind up in a big Ziploc bag (or worse, an untidy heap) in a drawer somewhere, unsifted and disorganized. I don't keep track of how much I spend per month, so what I have left over before and after payday always comes as a complete shock. As such, while living in Korea, I've probably been spent a bit too much money on things that don't matter: pipe tobacco, whiskey, sushi, and overpriced appetizers served up by rude Bulgarians. This is a hell of a way to run a railroad, particularly since I have some rather large expenditures in mind when I get home to the States: marriage, children, an instrument rating and a commercial pilot's license, among others. Jeez, you'd think I'd be better at this. My sign is Libra, after all.

So, to amend this reprehensible state of affairs, I set aside today to create a budget, as per the instructions on The Art of Manliness's website. I won't go into too much numerical detail. Telling you how much I make (or worse, how much I spend) each month would be indiscreet. I'll just say that I followed the directions to the letter: I determined my monthly income, totted up all my fixed expenses, and set a goal for the variable ones. I had to get Miss H's help with some things. Since her school is renting out this apartment for us, most of the utilities come out of her paycheck (except for Internet, which I pay for). We split the difference each month. We also try to limit Costco runs to once per month, 'cause everything there is so danged expensive. We've been eating out a bit too much, too. But anyway: Miss H worked up a lovely utilities spreadsheet for me, and using it I managed to come up with a number. It's what I should have left over after all expenses are said and done (barring incidentals and fun) and I'm going to try to stick as close to it as possible.

(I was tempted to use Mint, which is what the author of the AoM article recommended. But something tells me it won't work as well with Korean won as it will with American dollars. I think I'll wait until I get back to the States to get into web-based budgets and spreadsheets.)

Now the only hard part's going to be keeping track of my monthly expenditures — 
although, thanks to the bank books that are so popular here in Korea, my checkbook balances itself. I'll just have to remember to glance at it every month and make sure I've stayed in the black.

And now you must excuse me. I have to go see if I have enough wiggle room for a new iPod Nano. I want to grab one before I head off to Hokkaido. Please loiter around for Day 17. 

Wednesday, January 15, 2014

30 Days to a Better Man, Day 15: make a meal

We're halfway home! And I gotta tell you, I'm glad I took up this challenge. I feel like a better man already. I have a much better grasp of my core values, my shoes are spit-shiny, my apartment's been decluttered, I've thanked some special people in my life (at long last), reconnected with old friends, increased my testosterone, and much more. This last half of the challenge, however, looks to be the most challenging — and the most rewarding.

Today's task is to simply make a meal. Too easy! I'm sure glad I had a mother and father who both knew how to cook and schooled me in the culinary arts. I've always thought cooking was a blast (it was the cleaning up afterward that I really minded). But I never knew that cooking is apparently quite manly.

Since Miss H's schedule is so demanding, and mine isn't, I do a good deal of the cooking at our apartment. And not just spaghetti or steak, either: chicken piccata, vegetarian lasagna, penne with vodka sauce, stir-fry, Caesar salad, red snapper with pepper and lemon, and chilaquiles casserole are just some of my specialties. I'm told I make a mean chicken fajita, too. 


In fact, that was the dish I selected for this evening: my special chicken fajitas with Spanish rice:


The instructions for Day 15 weren't specific as to what kind of meal you should make. Breakfast, lunch or dinner; it doesn't matter. But Hamburger Helper or Chef Boyardee should not figure into the picture. It should be concocted from scratch.

Since I habitually make meals by cooking, roasting, baking or frying a simple entrée and then opening cans of green beans and/or corn for side dishes, I decided to up the ante a little bit and craft the side dish from scratch, too. I've actually never made Spanish rice before, so I used this recipe. It worked like a charm. Tasted just like my Dad's special Spanish rice: warm, flavorful and delicious. Using Korean short-grain rice made the stuff delectably gooey, too.

Here's the final result, ready to be dished up to the wife, home from the cold and her crazy students!


Thank you, thank you. I'm the man. Now make sure to stop by tomorrow for Day 16.